Journey into Indian Country

[Page 1]
Some account of a Journey I took into
the Indian Country 1798
Feeling an engagement of Mind to
Join John Pierce in a Visit to the Indian
natives of this Land, after some close exer-
-cise of Mind on the Occasion, I gave up:
and on the 30th day of the 4th Mo 1798, after
a comfortable Opportunity in my fami-
-ly, several friends being present, I took
an Affectionate farewell of them, and a-
-bout one O clock in the afternoon set
of in Company with John Pierce, and
Henry Simmons, in order to pursue a
Journey to the Northwest parts of this,
and New York State, to assist in form-
-ing a Settlement among the Indians, for
their improvement in Agriculture, and
more of a Civilized Live, we stopped and
took some refreshment at John Truman’s,
and Lodged at Isaac Taylors. 22 miles
[Page 2]
5mo 1 A fine day for traveling, tho
warm, went to Abraham Gibbons’s
11 miles, here by appointment we met
with Joel Swayne, and Halladay Jack-
-son, two young Men who with Henry
Simmons had given up to reside some
time among the Indians for their
religious and temporal benefit, took
dinner here, then went 7 miles to Lan-
-caster, where stopping and doing some
business, we went on 12 miles to Wrights
ferry on Susquehanna, where there is
a pretty Town lately laid out, it con-
-tains 20 or more good buildings, beauti-
-fully situated on an elevation above
the River, the shore of which was lined
with many thousand feet of White
Pine boards and other Lumber which had been down that River for
near half a Mile. most of this days
ride has been was through a fruitful well
improved Country, with good Stone
[Page 3] Houses and Barns, a large proportion
of the land was sown with Rye; some of
the Wheat fields looked pretty well, but
in general Poor; Clover not so forward
as in my neighborhood; some beauti-
-ful Meadows, between Lancaster and
this place, 30 miles
2nd a rainy Morning, stayed under shelter until
8 O Clock, and then Crossed the River in the Rain
it is one Mile and 12 perches wide, which
a Man and horse crosses for 6d; a cheap ferry,
thence to York Town 12 miles mostly through
a Valley, perhaps 10 or more miles wide, some
beautiful Meadows made their appear-
-ance, more particularly within a few miles
of the River, and this Town, the Winter
Grain mostly Poor, though the Land appeared
to be of a good quality, and well farmed,
The town of York has an agreeable ap-
- pearance, in which there are a number
good Buildings; it is beautified by a large
stream of Water called Codoras which runs
through the Town, we dined here at a Public
[Page 4] House,— then set of for Isaac Everets.
in 2 or 3 miles after we left the Town
we got out of the Limestone Valley, and
passed through a Country diversified
with gentle Assents, and descents, pretty
clear of stones, the Land in places
thin, though well watered by the Branches
of the Canowagoe, the main stream of
which was nearly as large as Brandy-
-wine, the Winter grain much affected
with the fly, this has been a pleasant af-
-ternoon to ride, the Wind at Northwest
and pretty Cool, Stopped at John Garison’s
17 miles where we fed our horses and got
some refreshment, then some of us went
to Isaac Everett’s 3 miles, where we lodged,
leaving the others at John Garrisons. 32 miles.
3rd Set of early this Morning, and in about
three Miles came to a large hill several miles over called the first, mountain which was
4 or more Miles across, we then entred
a body of Limestone Land, having Crossed
the Yellow Breeches a large stream called Yellow Breeches, the
[Page 5] face of the Country pretty level, and much
of it under Culture, Rye the prevailing Win-
-ter Crop, which was mostly thin, Clover scarce-
-ly made its appearance in any of the fields,
which for want of better farming were
very bare of pasture. fed at the Black horse
14 miles, thence to Shippensburgh 12 miles,
part of which was through a flat Pine bottom
containing a large number of Ponds of stag-
-nated Water, but as we advanced nearer
the Town, we passed through high Cham-
-pion Land, beautifully Timbered, then Cross-
-ed a large, Stream which that sprang up a
few Perches to our left, we were informed
it mostly which often went dry in the fall, the town
was more than half a Mile long, containing,
as we were informed 250 houses, a number
of which was were good Stone buildings, for 2 or
3 miles after we left the town we passed through
a beautiful well improved Limestone Coun-
-try, thence through land not so desirable
to Strawsburgh, a Village containing per-
-haps 40 houses, built of Squared Logs, the which
Town stands in a low place, hardly discover
[Page 6] able till we arrived nearly on it, Shortly
after we passed through this Town, we began
to Ascend the Blue Mountain, an high
Towering eminence, steep and very Rocky,
in about three Miles we arrived at the
bottom of the Opposite side, where we
Crossed the main branch of Conedogwine
and took up our Quarters at George Skinners,
good accommodations, he has made valuable
improvements, though in a Wild romantic Coun-
-try. 29 miles
4th Set of early, we immediately asscened
another Mountain much like our last,
when we arrived at its Summit we had
a delightful View of a well improved
Valley three two or more miles in weadth, with
a lofty Mountain beyond, Just as we ente-
-red this Valley, we Crossed the Conacocheague
Creek a beautiful stream, in about half
a Mile we passed through Phanetts-Burgh
a Village of perhaps 30 Loghouses, shortly af-
-ter we crossed passed this Town we ascend-
-ed a third Mountain much like the two
last discribed, from thence to Birds at fort
Littleton 5 miles, through a rough Country,
[Page 7] Surrounded with lofty Mountains, some
pretty good improvements in places made
there appearance, and the Roads consider
-ing the Roughness of the Country not to be
complained of, here we got our Breakfast
12 miles. from thence to Skinners on the
top of Sidling hill 11 miles, through a rough,
Broken, poor Country, very little inhabited.
Sidling hill a lofty Mountain; 7 miles carried
us over, we made near four miles on its
Summit, which was very high, but our
prospect not extensive by reason of some
mountains which was nearby on each
hand, as we began to descend a noble
view presented, as far as the Eye could
reach, having the Allegeny Mountain in
full view at 20 or more miles distant, the
extensive prospect between, looked like
a delightful plain, Chequered with a few
plantations, but when we came to tra-
-verse it, we found many lofty hills, or
Mountains, particularly about the Juni-
-atta River, one Branch of which we
Crossed, which was some 50 or so yards wide
and more than Belly deep; directly upon
[Page 8] Crossing this stream we ascended the
Steepest hill we have met with since we
left home, it is admirable that so many
Wagons which pass this road, should be able to get
up it, I suppose we have passed by 20 this
this day, mostly with families going to new
Countries, a number of which were Crowded
with Children; 17 people of different descrip-
-tions belonged to one wagon. — when I view-
-ed the hills and mountains about this River,
I was struck with admiration that it ever found
a way through them to the Susquehanna, but
I will assure my readers that its meanders
are very various, and serpentine, some 5 or 6 miles after we
Crossed it this stream we had the River nearby on each
hand perhaps not more than half a mile a-
-part. we took up our Quarters at one
Hartley’s near the its banks, of said river, he has a valuable
plantation, and pretily situated. most
of this days ride has been through a
very broken, poor, and thinly settled Coun-
-try. — 38 miles
5th Went 6 miles up the Juniatta, through
a rough, Mountainous Country to Bedford,
having about one mile back crossed the
[Page 9] River on a Bridge, the Town stands in
a Valley Surrounded by high Mountains, it is
a pretty pleasant situation, being seated on an
elevated Spot near a branch of the River, the Town it
contains a number of good Stone buildings
among which are a Courthouse, Jail, &c: here
we got our breakfast, and then passed over
a very Mountainous, poor Country, and but
thinly settled to the Allegenies, which Moun-
-tain tho high, was not difficult ascending,
being rather a succession of Mountains than
one huge pile, we had several very steep As-
-scents and descents, while on this Mountain,
yet our road went much of the way on the top
of very high ridges, when we arrived at its
greatest eminence, we stoped at an Inn and
refreshed ourselves, here we met with a fine
Spring of Water near the door. we here turned to the left taking the glade road, the descent from
this Mountain was gradual, the Land arable
tho stony, it is called 10 miles across, —We now
entered what is called the Glades, we having understood
in places there were flats or openings where
much Grass was Cut, Yet where we went throug[h]
was heavy Timbered, some of which was were sugar
Maple being the first we had seen, the Land
appeared good, was pretty thick settled, and
[Page 10] productive, we arrived at a Dutch
Town called Berlin, containing upwards
of 50 Houses, Mostly of Logs, and Frame, when
at the sign of the Black House we got good
entertainment. 36 miles
6 We started early this Morning with some hopes
of reaching a friend’s House this evening, which
was very desirably, for 2 or more miles the
Land was good, and considerably Settled, tho
Hilly. thence we entered a Chesnutt Country,
the Soil thin, and in a while we came among
abundance of Laurel, the road very Stony,
Rocky, & Muddy, thence entered a Pine forrest
being the first White Pines of note since we
have met with; here they grew in abun-
-dance, tho not very large, but few settlement
the greatest part of this stage, stoped and got
our Breakfast at John Thusiers 13 miles.
from thence to Geo: Batchaler’s 14 miles, the
whole of this stage remarkable rough, the first
3 or 4 miles the Land appeared pretty good tho
very hilly, one hill more steep and long than
any we have hitherto met with, was as we went
down to Laurell—hill—Creek, a smart stream
from thence to near this place called Laurell
Hill, the whole of this stage very heavy Timbered
so that the Hill comparatively speaking groan
[Page 11] ed under their great Load, abundance of
which was beautiful Chesnut, the finest I reme
remember to have seen, with a large Quan-
-tity of Oak of various kinds, some Sugar
Maple &c: much of this stage the road was very
Rocky and Stony. From thence to Conalds—
-Ville a small Town on the Yoxhiogeny 14 miles
the most of this stage was poor, rough, and
Mountainous, and but thinly settled, except
within 3 or 4 miles of the River after we left
the Chesnut Ridge. — We all took notice
when on the Allegenies and for many Miles
on this side, how very backward the Trees
were, when we left home they were putting
out fast, and the Weather being very warm
they made rapid progress; yet this morning
we remarked the buds of the Chesnut and
White Oak were not formed into leaves so
as to make an appearance, yet the same
day as we descended from the Chesnut Ridge
the Trees were all green, the sight was
so Curious, and different from our late pros-
-pect, that I measured some Chesnutt leaves
and found them to be 3 Inches wide, and
Six long, and sprouts of 8 or 9 Inches growth.
So that I think there is at least, in three miles
[Page 12] Riding two Weeks difference in the Season.
When on the Chesnut hill there is one of the most
extensive prospects that is to be met with
in traveling, both to the North, to the
West, and to the South, I had no doubt but the View
was of 50 miles extent, it was not so de-
lightful as some I have seen, for want of a
lofty mountain rising 10 or more miles in
front, but it was Chequered with many Plan-
-tations: in every direction, the View look
-ed like an extensive plain, but when
we came to the traverse it, we found many
Steep Hills, but tho no Mountain; neither is
there any to the Westward in the United
States equal to those we have Crossed. We
lodged with our kind friend Thomas Gibson
on the Bank of the River. 41 miles
7th a pleasant day, went to my Kinsman’s
Reese Cadwaladers, near BrownsVille on
the Monongahala, we Crossed the Yoxge
Yoxhiogeny in a boat it was about 6 feet
deep and perhaps 150 yards wide, in about
half a mile after we crossed the River, we
passed by a Merchant Mill erected on a
very Curious Seat, the stream was small,
but had a natural perpendicular fall over
[Page 13] a broad Rock which lay Horizontal of
28 feet, the Mill was erected close to this
Rock which formed a level Yard to the
upper Road; under sd Rock was a Cavity
or hollow place 12 feet high, and nearly
as far back, which ran all across the
Stream, over which the Water beautifully
descended. From thence to the Mononga-
-haly a continual succession of high hills
and low Vales, the Very little bottom land
fit for Meadow, the land is pretty clear of
Stones, the soil in general good, and thick
settled, yet some of the fields which had been
a good while under Culture looked poor; I saw
several fields of good Wheat, but more that
looked were light.
8th: Went 12 miles this Morning to see my Cousin
Benjamin Sharples, he lives on the West
Branch of 10 mile Creek near Green Furnace.
I crossed the Monongahala at BridgeTownport a
Village containing near 50 houses, the place
whereon the town stands was four years
ago a fine Meadow. the River is a
beautiful Stream, flows along with a
very gentle Current, is 340 Yards wide
and 10 or 12 feet deep, it has very high
[Page 14] Banks, yet last fall they were overflown
the River as I was informed rose 42 feet
Perpendicular. The people here were very
busy building flat bottomed Boats, they are
made out of green timber, about 12 feet wide,
and from 20 to 30 feet long, boarded up, on
each side, 5 or 6 feet high, and roofed over
more than half way, I was informed many
boats of this kind was built on this River
and its neighboring Waters, they are
sold at the rate of 11/3 per foot, for every
foot they are in length, to people who come
with families to these Waters, to take their
departure Westward, and Sail Southwest,
to new Countries, they put on board, horse
Waggon, farming Utensels, Cowkind, hosehold
furniture &c: and so great if the Spirit of emi-
-gration down the Waters of the Ohio to dif-
-firent places, that we were informed when
at Pittsburgh by a very reputable Character
that for 30 days past upon an average he
thought there had been from 10 to 12 of these
boats, containing from 20 to 50 persons so
loaded, passing by that Town each day. they
gently move down with the Current, and when
they come to the mouth of the Scioto and other
[Page 15] rivers their Boats are of no further use, for
their Construction is such they cannot be taken
up the Stream, and are therefore often sold
for a trifle, or turned adrift. — I went
up the West side of the River and in about
6 miles passed through a small Village called
Fredricks Town, then up the River to 10
mile Creek I passed over some very
Rich bottoms on sd River and Creek;
also hillsides very good, abounding with
Black and White Walnut, Locust, Sugar
Maple &c: as far as I have seen, if it was
not for the Hills, it this would be a desirable
Country, but they will ever be in the Way
of farming, and conveying produce
to Market, but its Vicinity with Water
Cariage will very much facilitate the lat
-ter, their best meadows are often to be found
on the tops of high hills, which are often
inclinable to be wet, and Springy, the
land is inclinable to grass, yet Clover
is not much propagated. the price of
produce pretty good, Wheat 7/6 Rye 4/6
Corn 3/9, Oates 3/9, Bacon 1/, Butter 1/61/3,
Cheap 1/ 9d home made sugar from 1/ to
to one ¼ of which with Industry came the
Country may always be supplyed 24 miles
[Page 16] 9 Attended Redstone Meeting, dined at
Reese Cadwaladers, where we have made
our home since our arrival here, it is a good
place for man and beast, Our horses have
had very good Pasture, and been well
fed with Grain, so that they recruited.
Set of this afternoon for Pittsburgh, crossed
the Monongalela at Bridgetownport, went
down the west side of it said River to Alexander Boggs
on Pigeon Creek where we lodged 11 m
having a few miles back crossed Trout Run
10th Set of early this Morning, Stopped at Par-
-kers, fed our horses and got our Break-
-fast, a number of curious falls pre-
-sented on small streams in this last stage,
at a Certain depth much of this Country
appears to be covered with broad Rocks
lying Horizontally, which about the
streams is washed bare, over the edges
of these Rocks the Water often falls, from
2 to 12, or 15 feet, in many places the Rock
is hollow, so that there are large Cavities
under where the water falls, quite dry.
from hence to Pittsburgh 16 miles, from
[Page 17] Bridgeport to that said place, the face of the Coun
-try has no remarkable variation, it is
all the way a continual succession of hills
tho not so high and steep as about Bridge-
-port, the Land gradually decreased in
its fertility, is all the way settled tho thinly, some
fields of Wheat and rye looked very well, yet
many others were poor, was generally heavy
Loaded with timber; the greatest body of
which was White Oak, Some Sugar Maple
along the low ground, yet the further to-
-wards Pittsburgh the scarcer, I have seen next
to no pine since I came over the Moun-
-tains; some Chesnut in places; but rails
are mostly made of White Oak; as are
there houses, — We had every little prospect
of Pittsburgh, until we arrived near by,
the Town stands in a beautiful plain
surrounded by very high hills, just
about the Junktion of the Allegeny and
Monongahely Rivers, Which Rivers when
united make the Ohio, we descended a very
steep hill or Mountain to the Mononga-
-hela, not fit for any Wagon to go up, or down,
though they often pass it, the river flows gently along
[Page 18] at the foot of this Mountain, where we Crossed
it, being half a mile wide and 10 or 12 feet
deep, this River is most in View from the
Town, and the greatest place of trading,
the Street next to sd River is beautifully
Situated, being level; 50 or 60 feet wide,
and elevated perhaps 50 feet above
the Water, there are places for Waggons
to go down, and a fine gravelly mar-
-gin to drive on, the town when we
were there was a place of great Concourse
abundance of People take their depar-
-ture from here to various parts of the
Western, and Southwestern Territories,
And up the big Bever, the Allegeny
River, Friench French Creek to Casa-
-waga, Presqueisle &c. — It was the time of
the supreme Court when we arrived here,
and we had some fears whether we should
get accommodations for ourselves and horses,
but having before we Crossed the River
enquired for the best Tavern; we were
recommended to the Greentree near the
River, where upon our arrival after some
[Page 19] hesitation we were taken in, where we
found good accommodations. Some discou-
-ragements attended my mind on my way
thither, concerning the business we were
going on, it being in its self important,
to be transacted among a people of
a Strange language, in an unknown
and Wilderness Country, and a great un-
-certainty how we should be able to get
the goods we have in care to our desir-
-ed port; but upon our arrival here,
and being introduced to some for whom
we had letters of Credit; we met with a
very kind reception, and they appear-
-ed hearty in assisting us, and they in-
-formed, that the goods sent from Phila-
-delphia where safely arrived a few
days ago, and were in the Public Store.
The [drawing of a sun] Deputy Quarter Master informed us
that he would send them up to Cornplan-
-ter's Village, which was at least 140 miles
by land, and abundantly more by Water.
that it was a very lucky time for them
to go, the River being neither to low nor
[Page 20] too high, so that the prospect of things
looks a little more lightsome.
11th Had an interview with General Wilken-
-son this Morning, he recieved us very
respectfully, appeared well satisfied with
the business we were going on, and cheer-
-fully disposed to Assist us in our undertak-
-ing, he gave us the Deputy Quarter Master,
who bore us company, direction in our
hearing to forward our goods to Cornplan-
-ter’s Settlement, he kindly invited us to
come and take Dinner with him, which
kindness we acknowledged, but excused
ourselves on account of our Business.
All hands were now employed in procuring
the necessary articles to be sent into the Indian
Country, Isaac Crage the Deputy Quarter
Master, was very assistant, he provided
a Boat, Sent a Wagon to take our goods
from the Public Store, which was in the
Fort, and went with us there; he also sent
the Wagon to convey those we had pro-
-cured in different parts of the Town; we
got all our goods to the Warf Wharf,
Weighed, and put on board before evening,
[Page 21] the whole of those sent from Philadelphia
and procured in this Town Weighed about
4700, for which the Boatman was to have
20/ Per £ for taking them up to Cornplanter’s
Village, which we afterwards understood
from him was 270 miles by Water. He
agreed to set of with them in two or three
days, & let us know it would take him 18 days
to go up the River to the Settlement.
We expect to set off in the Morning, but
have first to wait on General Wilkinson
on a particular occation before we Start.
This Town consists of a number of Streets, cross-
-ing each other at right angles, and contains
more than 200 Houses, many of whom which are
large Brick and Stone Buildings, —I have
observed since I came to this place, that Stone
Coal is the common fuel for Firing, our
landlord informed us it was the Cheapest,
though the neighborhood abounds with Wood,
it comes to the fire in large, hard pieces,
looks black and shining, and makes a
strong hot fire. I have frequently sawseen for 10 miles back[?] at the sides
of Creeks &c where the Edges of the Rocks were
washed bare, stratums of Coal mixed with
[Page 22] Stratas of Slate.
12th A Cold Morning and Smart white fros[t]
Several of our number waited on the Ge-
-neral this Morning agreeable to his re-
-quest, which was a satisfactory interview,
and to encourage the business we were
going upon and assist therein present-
-ed us with the following letters, accompa-
-nied us through the guards, and respectfully
took his leave of us.
2.
‘Head Quarters PittsBurgh may the 12 1798
Sir, This will be handed to you by Mr:
Peirce of the Society of friends in Philadel-
-phia, who with Several Associates is on a
Visit to the Seneca Nation, with views
to make some establishments which may
prove useful to those people, and interest-
-ing to the rights of humanity, You will
be pleased to furnish Mr Peirce, a guide,
Provisions and any accommodations he may
need, charging the accruing expenses, to
their proper heads, — with respect and
esteem, I am Sir, Your Obed Servt
Captain Fowler Agent
of the 2r Ma General James Wilkinson
Fort Franklin’
3.
[Page 23]
‘To Cornplanter and the Village Chiefs
of the Seneca Nation.’
‘Friends and Brothers
The Bearer one of our beloved Men a-
-mong the People called Quakers, visits
you with several good Men from the
Same Society, who intend to sit down
amongst you, in order to instruct
our red Brethren in works of usefulness
“and to point out to them the path of
Virtue, which leads to the blissful mansions
of the great Spirit, the father of Light, & Life.
Brothers,
I charge you to take this our be-
-loved Man and his companions by the
hand, and to treat them with kindness &
Sincerity. Open Your Ears and listen to
“What they say, Open Your Eyes and follow
“their footsteps, then will your Old Men,
Your Wives, Your Children, and Childrens
Children live in security, and enjoy the com
-forts of Life, and the red people, and the White
People on this great Island will soon be-
“come as one. — Brethren & Children,
let this admonition sink deep into Your
[Page 24] hearts, and may you be blessed with a clear
Sky, Smooth Roads, and plentifull harvest
to the end of your days. — I commend
you to the care of the great Spirit, and
am in heart your friend.
Ja: Wilkinson
Commander in chief of the
Troops of the United States’
4.
Being now ready to depart, we took
leave of several of the first Characters of
this place, who wished us success, and
affectionately bid us farewell. —we then
crossed the Allegeny River at the Town, and
a little below the Fort, it was a clear, beau
-tiful stream, about 50 perches wide and
6 feet deep, has much more of a Current than
the Monongahela, and contains more water.
we now entered a Wilderness Country but
little inhabited the settlements not more
than 2 or 3 years old, and scarce of provision
for Man or horse, — for a few miles after we
Crossed the River the land was very good, but in
the general it fell short of the Idea I en-
-tertained of it. in this days ride the
[Page 25] Land was generally hilly though not with such Sharp
pitches as about Red Stone, tho as we advanc-
-ed northward the Hills decreased, in
places thinly timber'd, yet little or no pos-
-ture to be seen, White Oak the most general
timber, in the latter part of this stage, and
through the neat, stoped and fed at Dun-
-kins 18 miles, and got in the evening to
a place called the double Cabbin 15 miles
here we could get neither, pasture, hay, corn,
or Oates for our horses, but having a little
Oates with us, after feeding them, we tyed
them to stakes &c till Morning, after par-
-taking of some of our own Victuals, we
wrapped ourselves in our Blankets and
tried to get some Sleep on the earthen floor
being all the bed we could meet with, 33 miles
13 We were stiring betimes this morning, as our
bed was not inviting to indulge nature, and in
7 ½ Miles we came to a poor Cabbin, here we
got some Oates for our horses, and let them
pick a little in the Woods, but we found
a great Change since we left Redstone, the
Season is abundantly backwards; the
leaves are but Just putting out, and there
is next to no picking of any kind in the
Woods, that it looks likely our horses will even
[Page 26] much Suffer when we get among the In-
-dians, if not before, We took breakfast of our own
provision, and proceeded on 12 miles fur-
-ther, where after feeding our horses, we took din-
-ner in like Manner, and got to Fort Fr
Franklin before sunset four O Clock, 14 ½ miles
pretty much fatigued, part of our road being
tedious and rough, and we sensibly felt the effect
of our poor nights rest. we met with but
few houses in this days ride, the Country
has been pretty level except about Sandy Creek
and since, which Creek we Crossed 3 miles
back, most of the Land in this days ride that
presented in view was of a thin Quality, and
in places very Stony, White Oak has been the
Principal Timber, with a large Quanty of
Chesnut as we drew on this way, the greatest
part of which was bloom down for miles to-
-gether. — The town of Franklin is situated
close on the South Side of French Creek,
it contains perhaps 10 or 12 log houses, they
were built under the Cover of an Old fort,
which is now demolished, and a new one
erected ½ a mile lower down the Creek Just
above its Junction with the Allegeny River.
after feeding our horses, and getting our dinner
[Page 27] two of us waited on Captain Fowler, and
presented General Wilkinson’s letter, which
upon his reading, he manifested great respect
and a full disposition to comply with its
contents, he kindly invited us to come
and take breakfast with him tomorrow
morning 35 miles
14 This morning we breakfasted with the Cap-
-tain agreeably to his request, and got of
him 4 Bushels of Corn ½ a £ of flour and 2
Quarts of Salt, the Corn to feed our horses with,
through the Wildnerness, and the flour &c:
to take to the Indian Village, and Joseph
Johnson a Surveyor to the Holland Company
who was going to the mouth of Conowanga, within
15 miles of Cornplanter’s Village, he agreed
to pilot us thither, and procure us a guide we
from that place to the Village. after getting
our dinner at the Tavern where we put up
last evening, we took our departure, being
willing to leave this dear place, having had
to pay 3/ a meal for Victuals, 4/ a night
for each of our horses for at very Coarse hay
15/ a bushel for Corn, and Yesterday we had
to pay as high as 15/ a bushel for Oates.
[Page 28]
We Crossed French Creek close creek by the town I thoug[ht]
it was as large as three of Brandywine,
in 2 or more miles we turned to our right
leaving the main road that leads to
Casawaga, La Boeuf, and Preaque isle to our left,
we had stones with a rough country for
a while, in places very poor, in about
12 miles we crossed a rich bottom on a
small stream, here was plenty of pasture, being
the first we had seen in the Woods since
we left home, from thence to Oyl Creek
through level Rich land, 6 miles, here
we met with an house, being the second
we have seen since we left franklin,
here we and took up our horses quarters, and
after feeding our horses with some Corn
turned them for the first time into the
Open Woods, there being plenty of Grass
and other luxuriant growths. This is the
most desirable place that I have seen for
many miles back, a fine fertile bottom on the Creek
with plenty of level plough land adjoining, which
appeared good, a large stream of Water
not far of, and a noble Spring Just by the
door large enough to turn a Mill, yet it is not
known that there is any limestone in this neigh
[Page 29] -bourhood, neither have I seen any since we
left Pittsburgh. Oyl Creek is so named from
an Oyly substance that is gathered of its water
either from Springs that rises near its mar
-gin, or from off the stream in different pla-
-ces, we were informed that one man gather
-ed three Barrels last year, and which he sold it at
Pitts-Burgh for four dollars Per Gallon, it is
called Seneca Oyl, and is in great demand
as medicine.
15 A large White frost which has been the si-
-tuation of the last 5 or 6 mornings, set of for
Broken Straw a large water. about two miles
of very good land down the waters of Oyl Creek
we then entered a White Pine Forrest, being
the first worth noting since we Crossed the
Mountains. here the the Holland Company
is erecting a Grist Mill, a Sawmill being
already put up, though there are but few houses
within 20 miles. we have had a cut road ever
since we left Pittsburgh to this place, which
now ending, we entered the Wilderness with
-out any path, a number of trees being mar
marked last fall, they were now to be our
guide; it was a thick wood we had to pass
through, with a great quantity of brush, and
young stuff in the way, our Journey this day
was truly wild and romantic, having a
[Page 30] continual succession of Logs to Cross, sometime
three in a pearch, divers of which we had to
Jump our horses over, and with difficulty got
round others; in places such a a large Jumble
of large stone or Rocks, that we were in con
-tinual danger of getting over Horses legs
fast, or broke in the Cavities between the Stones
presently we would have to descend banks
almost Perpendicular in Swamps, and
then out again as difficult, and there gu[?]tts
were very frequent, the roots of the Pine
and Hemlock trees were also very trou-
-blesome, the ground in many places being was
laced over with them in a Rough Condi-
-tion, the underbrush and limbs of the
Trees were another very great difficulty,
as were some very steep hills in the latter par[t]
of this stage, it was called 24 miles which
we thought were very long ones, for it
took us 12 hours industrious traveling
including about an hour we turned our
horses out to try to pick a little grass tho but
next to none was to be seen in this days
ride, nor one house for 20 miles, the land
was heavy timbered but not a kindly
soil, and I think will not be settled for many
years to come. many natural curiosities
presented in this days ride, one of which
[Page 31] was the large quantities of green moss
which covered all the Rocks, the Stones
the Old Logs and the whole surface of
the ground, under the thick forest of
the Pine trees, I thought the Coat of
moss for thickness and length resembled
a fleece of Wool, some large rocks 12 or
more feet high, thus shielded over, and
receiving seed from the neighboring
trees, which the[?] seed haveing sprouted, took root,
and grew to be large trees, of 2 or 3
feet over, 3 or 4 such trees I have seen on one
Rock, and their Roots have spread down its
sides 10 or more feet until they underfeed
have joined the ground and grown firm there-
-in, so that the sides of the Rocks has was were bound
with them like so many large Ropes. We
arrived on Broken Straw in the evening
where we found plenty of pasture for our
Horses, and a Cabbin, that was erected last
summer, the Owners of which kindly let
us have Quarters, and directed where the
best pasture on the Creek was, to turn
our horses too, we had provision with us which
after partaking of, we Spread ourselves
on the floor, to take some rest, which we
found Small enough for us and the family
[Page 32] and the night being cold, and the Cabin
very open, we often had to rise to mend
our fire. 24 miles
16 Set of for the Mouth of Conowango, went
7 miles down the Eastside of Brokenstraw
to the Allegeny River, the bottoms on the
Creek was rich, and beautifully coated
over with a luxuriant vegetation, and
loaded with lofty Pines, Sugar trees, White
Walnut, Buttonwood &c, here we saw several
Sugar Camps erected by the Indians, where
they come in the Season to make Sugar, tho
more than 20 miles from their Village, but
we found when amongst them that they have
plenty of good Canoes, so that the could with
great facility convey their Kettles &c for
making Sugar, down the River and up this
Creek, we passed by two or more Cabins Settlements
as of white people as as we went down this Creek to the River,
but saw none after we turned up the River
to the mouth of Conowanga, where we arrived
about noon, it is called 18 miles from this plac[e]
to Cornplanter’s Village, and a very rough
road, so that we agreed to stay here until
morning, there being pretty plenty of
pasture for our horses, and a good house
for ourselves to Quarter in, though we had to find our own provision and sleep on the floor near the mouth
[Page 33] of this Creek on a beautiful dry plain there
is a Town laid out by the State of Pennsyl-
-vania, it is called Warrentown, the Hol-
-land Company owns a large body of land
adjoining this place which they are Surveying
into Townships &c. and settling, they have
built a good house on a lot in sd Town, where
they keep a store to supply their Survey-
-ers and Settlers with Provision &c. Joseph
Johnson our Pilot have had the charge of this
Store, and this was as far as he designed
going with us. When we arrived here we
met with perhaps 20 or more Indians, many
of whom were drunk, having obtained
liquor of some settlers that were at this
House intending in a few days to go up
the Creek to their destined spot, Joseph John-
-son immediately put a stop to the selling
of Liquor, and informed us, that he and his
men had obtained from the use of it distilled spirits in there
surveying business last summer, as was the
practice of other surveyors in the Holland
employ, and found they were better without
it. he agreed with a Young Indian who
was sober, and we were informed would not
get drunk, to Pilot us tomorrow to Cornplan-
-ter’s Village, he was a good Countenanced lad,
[Page 34] and appeared pleased with the charge
assigned him 15 miles
17 A pleasant day, set off with our Indian guide
he could not talk English, nor understand
any that we knew of, in less than 2 miles
we Crossed the Conowanga a beautiful
Stream, which flowed along with a gentle
Current, we thought it was nearly as
large as French Creek, for about two miles
after we crossed this Water, our the land was
good, but from thence to the Allegeny Rive[r]
perhaps 8 miles, we had a rough Mountainous
Country, and I think much of it a poor
thin Soil, we had with a number of very steep
hills to Ascend and descend, our road
was better Calculated for an Indian pat[h]
than traveling on horseback. we had there was a
great abundance of Windfall timber to
cross, we thought on an averidge, one or
more for every two perch, some we could
get round, and others we jumped our horses over. When
we arrived on the River we stopped a while
to let our horses eat grass, there being a great
plenty on some of its bottoms, which was
a pleasing sight, and had a tendency to re-
-move some fears, which attended when in the naked Woods
where no grass was to be seen, that our
[Page 35] Horses after their hard Journey, when we got a-
-mong the Indians must suffer for want of
provisions. while here a number of Indi-
-ans came by in Canoes, who stopped to see
us, Shook hands with us, and looked pleasant.
one man came down the Mountain to us with
a large turkey on his back, which he had
Just Shot, we thought it would have weigh-
-ed more than 20 Lb. the sight of this convey-
-ed an Idea that small game was plenty a-
-mongst them, and it was likely we should
come in for Shares, one of the Canoes also
had a quantity of fine fish in it. but we
found when amongst them that a Turkey
was very seldom taken, or any other small
game, & it is rare to see a Squirel in the
Wilderness, we saw some pheasants, but no
partridges, neither did we see fish
while amongst them but once. After
a short conference on the weighty business
we were embarked in, we proceeded up
the River, not without some exercise of
Mind, and would have been glad to we could have
sent a messenger forward to have inform-
-ed the Chiefs of our coming, but this was out
of our power, for none of the Indians we
had met with could talk English, we there-
[Page 36] -fore moved forward with or minds atten-
-tive to best direction, when we came in
sight of the town, many Indians appear
-ed in view, looking toward at us, our guide
turned into the first Cabin he came to,
and would go no further, but point-
-ed to Cornplanter’s house, we paid him
one dollar for what he had done, and
moved forward; we presently saw the
Chief with a number of other Indians
coming toward us, upon our riding up
to them and alighting, they appeared to
welcome us with open Countenances.
we did not know Cornplanter, nor could we distin-
-guish him by his dress, but upon shaking
hands with one that stood foremast we as
Asked if it he was Cornplanter, he in-
-formed us, in his, way that he was the
man, after shaking hands with them
all round, we were conducted to his house
which was not distinguished from the rest, only butby being
larger, and after unsaddling our horses,
and carrying in our Baggage, and be-
-ing seated, Cornplanter, his Son Henry
and Several others came in & sat down,
[Page 37] The Chief presently asked us, if we would
like to see his people in general Council,
we let him know that we would, as soon
as it was Convenient, and tomorrow at
10 OClock was therefore fixed on for the time; and
runners dispatched immediately for
that purpose. to give notice. It was two O’clock when
we arrived here, and sometime after the
above Conference, Cornplanter came into
our apartment, and asked us if we could
eat in the Indian way, we informed him we ex-
-pected we could, and he presently we had some
Dinner brought in some dinner in a bark bowl, and
a Tin kettle, the bowl was placed on the
seat beside us, and the kettle on the ground
before us, and we were invited to eat, we
saw the bowl, and the kettle, but what
was in either of them we knew not, or
whether they were to be eaten together, or
separate, the bowl contained a number of
round lumps of something tied in Cornhu
-husks, two dumplings were tyed in one
set of husks, with a string at each end
and in the middle, we let them know that our
Ignorance was such, we did not know how
to begin, which set some of the younger sort
[Page 38] a laughing, but the Chief took
out his knife, for they had set neither knives,
forks, or spoons, and taking up the
Dumplins he cut one of them in too,
then striping up the Cornhusks, with
his knife he cut off a piece of the dump
-lin, and and which diped it it in the Kettle, which
we found after contained Bears Oyl, and
eat it, we followed the example, and made
a light meal, the Bears Oyl was Cold and
not grateful to our Pallates, but we have
seen since, seen this way of eating is often prac-
-ticed among them; the Cold Indian Bread
dipped in the Oyl is more frequently used.
18 Last evening after we had lain down to
rest, Cornplanter and his son Henry
came into our apartment , and informed let
us know he would like to know what we intended to say to his
people in Council, we informed told him we would
give him an Opportunity of information
⟨him⟩ in the Morning, which this morning we
complied with, we and let him know we could
not tell all what that we should say, for we be-
-lieved on such occasions it was right to
wait on the good spirit to be directed.
We read to him the Certificate sent by
us from the Indian Committee which
[Page 39] particularly pointed out our business,
also General Wilkinson’s Letter, with which
he appeared satisfied, his son Henry
who has had an English Education in
and about Philadelphia, enterpretted
for us, for his Father can neither speak
nor understand English, Henry was our
enterpretter on all occations whilst a-
-mongst them, he was not ready, and we
believe the business we went on suffer-
-ed some for [?] want of one better qualifyed
about 12 O’clock between 30 and 40 of their principal
men met in council, which Council Cornplanter open
-ed by a short speech, expressing his satisfaction
on seeing us coming riding through the bushes,
and that it was the good spirit which preserv-
-ed us in our long journey, for which they were
very glad. He then informed us of their Poverty, the
poorness of their houses which were covered with
bark, and their inability to make good ones, we
thought the latter part of this speech was calculat-
-ed to draw our Charity. he then let us know
that they were all met that who were were likely to attend,
that their Women could not come, but the Men
would let them know what we said to them: we
had having particularly requested their Women might at-
-tend. We then opened our business by letting
[Page 40] them know the love of their Old Friends the
Quakers have for them, and our willingness
to take a long Journey to see them, some of us
having left Loving Wives, and tender Child-
-ren, with Comfortable dwellings, and ex-
-posed ourselves to the hardships and difficulties of a
perilous Journey, with no other view than
for their improvement. We then read the E-
-pistle or instrumental of writing the Committee sent,
which particularly opened the design, and cause
of our coming amongst them, it was read by para-
-graphs and interpreted with some difficulty.
We next read General Wilkinson’s letter, then
droped some advice, wishing them, when the took
our proposals into consideration, they would
guard against discouragements, that might
present, in their looking forward, towards
a change in their manner, of living for we did not
doubt but there might be many difficultie
in their way, and their progress might be slow
yet there are accounts in the Writings
amongst the White people, of a people who
lived beyond the great waters, in an-
-other Island, who a many years ago lived
much like they do now, yet were no by in-
-dustry and care [?] become very good
Farmers, and Mechanicks of all kinds
[Page 41] and from that people, many of those fine
Leggons, with the other striped and nice Cloath-
-ing they had on, came.* upon our letting them
know we had nothing more to say amongst
them at this time, they informed us they would
take our proposals into consideration and
give us an answer tomorrow.
19 The Indians were this day in Council on
the business we had laid before them, they
divers times sent their deputies for us to
explain some part of the business we had
opened to them, one of their questions was
how they should draw their Plough if the
*We then let them know that we had a boat com-
-ing up the Allegeny River, with various
kinds of goods, among which were a num-
-ber of Ploughirons, Hoes, axes, Shovels and
Spades, with Carpenters, Masons, and Coopers
tools, which we intended never to take a-
-way but leave amongst them, but while
our Young staid, they should be placed
under their care, to lend out to them as
the wanted, and, when done with them, to be return-
them -ed.
19 The Indians were this day in Council
on the business we laid before them, they
they divers times sent their Deputies for
us to explain some part of the business
[Page 42] we had opened to them, one of their ques-
-tions was, how they should draw their
Ploughs, seeing they had no Oxen, we
let them know we had seen two Horses run-
-ing about their Town, and that was e
enough to draw one Plough, and that if
they would save some of the Money they
were to get of the White People they might
buy a pair of Oxen, and they would draw
another Plough; and that our young men
would lend them there Horses sometimes,
that we did not expect any great matters from
them at first, and that these would do to make
a beginning, with this answer they appear-
-ed pretty well satisfyed, tho we thought it
was very evident it was not such an one
as the Question was artfully calculated
for. at another time the told us we must
wait with Patience for an answer, for
it was a great thing, and they were all
consulting about it in their Houses. About
five OClock they informed us they were nearly
ready to give us an answer, and wished to know
if it would suit us this evening, we let them
know tha we were waiting their time, but as
the day was far spent, left it with them to
Judge whether this evening would be suitable.
about Six 30 of them met us, the opportunity
[Page 43] I thought was owned, a degree of solemnity at-
-tending, and after a short pause Cornplanter
opened the Council, the following being the
substance of his speech.
5.
Brothers the Quakers,
Listen no now to what I
am going to say to you. – You know
brothers the Red people are poor, the great
Spirit has made them of another language,
so that it is very hard for us to understand
one another plainly, as there is no person
here that can interpret very well.
Brothers,
we take great pains to settle
the proposals you made to us, but we differ
in Opinions, and we must take great
pains to have every thing compleat
Brothers,
we suppose the reason you came here
was to help Poor Indians some way or other,
and you wish the Chiefs to tell their Warriors
not to go on so bad as the have done, and
you wish us to take up work like the white
People, now Brothers some of our sober men
will take take up work, and do as you say,
and if the do well, then will your young
Men stay longer, but some others will not
mind what you say
[Page 44] Brothers,
we cant say a word against you
it is the best way to call Quakers Brothers.
You never wished our lands, you never
wished any part of our Lands, therefore we are
determined to try to learn your ways, and
those young men may stay here two years
to try, by that time we shall know whether
Morris will leave us any land, for last summer
we sold our Land, and we dont know yet
whether we shall get what we reserved, or
wether we shall get our Money, but by that
time we shall know, and then if they like
it, and we like it, your young men may
stay longer.
Brothers,
if your young Men stay here we
want them to lern our Children to read
and Write.
Brothers,
Two of you are going home
again, if the hear any thing about our land,
or our Money, they must write to these young
men here, and the must tell us if we are
like to be Cheated.
Brothers,
this is all I have yet to say.
6.
We exchanged our satisfaction with their an-
-swer and let them know our young
[Page 45] Men would want a house to live in, and a
piece of good Land to work, that so they
may be able to raise their bread. For
which purpose we wanted desired some of their
Chiefs would to go with us, to look about their Coun-
-try, and conclude where would be most ad-
-vantageous to the nation for our young
men to settle down on, and that we would
wished to see their nation in general
Council once more before we left them.
Upon our letting them know we had no
more to say, Cornplanter desired his
People would all come and shake hand
with us, he himself first setting the ex-
-ample,
20 and 1st of the week, we had some conversati-
-on this morning about sitting together
in religious retirement, and thought
it would be right to inform Cornplanter,
that if he or any of his sober people
enclined to set with us it would be ac-
-ceptable, tho the prospect of such an
undertaking felt weighty, before we were
fully concluded, the Chief with his son
Henry came in to our appartment, and
said he hoped we would not think hard
[Page 46] at their not keeping the first day as
the white do, for they could not read
and Write, that they were poor and had
to work on that day, and that they were
often out a hunting and had to attend to
their Game, we let him know, that we
intended about 10 OClock to sit down
together in stillness to wait on the
great spirit, and if he or any of his
sober people would come and set with
us it would be acceptable. near the
time appointed Cornplanter with seve-
-ral other came into our appartment, he
sat very still until the opportunity closed,
they others sat quiet a while and then
withdrew, our door was being open during
the Opportunity, they Indians as the passed
by looked at us, but shewed no lightness
21 got up soon this morning to bake some
bread, that we might be in readiness by 7
OClock, to go up the River about 10 miles
with some of the Chiefs, to see were it would
be most suitable to make a settlement, we
found it a trying Circumstance rightly
to Judge what was best to do on the Occa-
-tion. Jeneocatego the Town where we now
are, being the place of Cornplanters re-
[Page 47] -sidence, is in the middle of a good spot
of Land, in Pennsylvania on the West
side of the Allegeny River, about five
miles South of the New York line, the said
Tract is Cornplanters own privet pro-
-perty containing, including two Islands,
near 800 acres Acres, on this Tract most and near
it, most of the Indians under his superin-
-tendency lives, which, with the goodness
of this Land, being a fine fertile soil,
was a weighty consideration of making
this the place of settlement, there are
also a large number of Children here
fit for schooling, so that with much con-
-veniency a large school might be
made up, but to ballance these advan-
-tages, we considered the Land was pri-
-vet property, and if we made improv-
-ments , such as building a house and
Barn, and Cleared land, when we left
it they would all belong to Cornplan-
-ter, and not to the nation; also if the
Indians where to clear land and fence
lots, they would not belong to the Nati-
-on. this consideration made us believe
it would be best to look elsewhere. –
The Nation owns 42 Square miles on this
[Page 48] River, beginning at the Pennsylvania
Line, the lines of the reservation is
not yet Run, but we found the Indians
have a choice that it should ly on the
River, half a mile wide on each side.
about 9 miles from hence up the River lat-
-terly stood a Town called Genesinguh-
-ta, the Inhabitants of which Village a
few years since mostly removed here,
about 10 miles further up the River we
understood a settlement had latterly
been made, from the best information
we could get, thought somewhere a-
-bout the Old Town would be the most
suitable place to fix on, it being about
half way between the upper settlement and
lower Town, according with consider-
-able exertion about 9 OClock we got Cornplan-
-ter, his son Henry, and three other
Indians to embark with us five in
a Canoe, they put us up the River with
setting Poles at the Rate of 3 miles an hour.
in places the River was Shallow and
ran rapid, in other places from two
to six feet deep, we pased by a num-
-ber of Islands, some pretty large, which
appeared rich, were grown over with grass
and other herbage very luxuriant, the
[Page 49] flats on each side of the River appeared
much of the same quality, tho none of them
appeared were wide; in about 6 miles we
came to Cornplanters sawmill, we stop-
-ed at his request and viewed it, the
Mill is almost new, built on a Small
Stream, which when we were there
was so low that the Mill could do very
little work, and at the time of Year that
the Stream is pretty full, the River is
often so high that it hurts the mill with
its backwater, in about three miles fur-
-ther up the River we came to the Old
Town, three or more families yet re-
-main here, we thought there might be
150 or more acres of a flat that has been
mostly cleared and worked with Corn,
part of which is grown up with Hazels
&c and part with grass, that in a few wee
weeks would do to mow, and some of the
richest sorts of it are put in with
Corn this Spring; it doth not appear to
have ever been fenced, and at certain
stretches it is mostly subject to an overflow.
it the tract lies on the Northwest side of the River.
the flat is about 40 reaches wide, and then
[Page 50] commences Timber Land, mostly White
Pine, suitable for building, or Railtim-
-ber, which Timberland within 60 perch-
-es of the flat we thought pretty good, lies
very well to the sun, with a gentle Assent,
and clear of stones; when Viewing this
land, and taking its local situation in
-to consideration, we were united in
believing, that somewhere about near
this place would be best to make our
settlement; upon informing two of the Chiefs
who bore us company, that we thought
across the upper end of the cleared flat from
the River back, taking in part of the Wood-
-land, would be suitable for our purpose,
and that if they liked it, to tell us, and if the did not
like it, tell us so, and we would look farther
where it would suit them better, they said the
had informed us that all their Land was be-
-fore us and that we might take it where we liked it
best, and expressed their full satisfaction
with our choice, Cornplanter then said, this man,
meaning one of the Chiefs that was with us,
lives in this Town, and he is like one of
us, he you, a sober man, & drinks no Whiskey, and he is very
glad our the young men are coming to live a-
-mongst them so near him. We informed the Chiefs that
our Young men would want timber for
[Page 51] to build a House, for Rails, and for fire-
-Wood, to which they readily consented, say-
-ing, they would be very glad they would cut
all the Trees down, and further Liberty
they would give them, if they saw a Buck
swimming across the River, or running
through the Woods they might shoot him
or if they saw any fish in the River they
might cath catch them, we then returned
down the River with Cornplanter to his Village
22 This Morning resumed the consideration of what farther pro-
-positions we should make to these people
in order to their additional encourag-
-ment in Civilization and Aggreculture,
and mutually agreed upon some, which will
be inserted in their proper place. –-
This afternoon Cornplanter presented us
with several kinds of seed Corn suitable for
this Climet; divers kinds of beans, and
Garden seeds, such as Watermelons, Pump-
-kins, Cucumbers &c with a quantity of
Potatoes for to Plant, these he said had been
sent in from the different houses as a
blessing to begin with, we thought the
hearty good will with which these were
presented manifested a full approba-
-tion with our undertaking, there were
more of each sort, except potatoes than we
[Page 52] wanted to plant, and upon informing
him so we were answered, that we
must take them all, for they were
sent in for that purpose.
23 We are now our own Cooks, dishwashers &c
Lining on our provisions that we brought with us
from Pittsburgh and Franklin, Cornplanter ear-
ly informed us early after our arrival how that
they were scarce of Corn, occationed as he
said by an uncommon overflow of the
River last Spring, sometime after their
Corn was come up, and by an early Frost
in the Fall. When enquiring for meat
Bacon at Pittsburgh to send up in the
boat, we were informed that it was unne-
-cessary to carry send meat here, for there
was a plenty in this place, however
we thought but not best to trust to an un-
-certainty, and have therefore 120 Lb
of Bacon coming up in the Boat. upon
enquiry since we came here, we find me
meat is not to be Obtained, about one
pound of dryed meat, and four pounds
fresh is all we got of the Indians while
amongst them, so that the prospect of things
[Page 53] as to provision looked a little gloomy, ou
our Boat is not being expected up in less than
9 or 10 days from this date, but upon Corn-
-planters informing, that he had several three
Barrels of flour in his House, that
he brought up from Pittsburgh, and
when ever we got out of meat, on lit-
-ting him know, he would supply us; we
felt relieved. We agreed with Cornplan-
-ters sister to supply us with three Quarts
of Milk a day at 8 Per Quart York Cur-
-rency, but she presenly let us know
two quarts was as much as she could
spare. We also got one pound of but-
-ter, such as it was, of her, at 2/. The Chief gave us
some Sugar, and some we purchased of
the Indians at 1/6 Per Lb. we have a pret-
-ty Comfortable House much to ourselves, Corn-
-planter has two Houses they stand about
10 feet apart, tho Roofed over between as the o
other parts of the House which is with
Bark, this Space between the Houses serves
for an entry, and a place to pound their
Corn under put their Wood &c. out of
this entry a door opens into each apart
[Page 54] apartment, that asigned us 30 feet
long, the other 24, and each 16 feet wide.
they are built of Round Logs, or Poles,
let in close together, the net Chunked
or plaistered, so that we found our
end pretty open and cold enough before
morning, upon our informing the Chief
they had better make their Houses titeer,
plaistering up the Cracks, he replyed
if they made their Houses too warm,
they would not like to leave them when
Winter came to go a hunting. along
each side of these Houses, from the door
to the opposite end, ran Births, or
Seats, they were about four feet wide
and one foot high, they were covered
with Boards, and on these Deer-
skins were spread, and these were
their Beds, they also make a pretty
good Seat, and are always ready,
over these Births, about five feet
high, are Shelves of the same width
of those the births beneath, which serve to put
[Page 55] their Kitchen furniture, Corn &c upon,
the fire is built on the ground in the
Middle of the House, this part between
the births not being floored; there is a large
hole left in the Top of the Roof for
the Smoke to go out at, which hole
makes a pretty good Window. -– As
far as I have observed the above descrip-
-tion answers for most of their Houses, tho
they are not so large, nor double, like this, they
are mostly from 12 to 15 feet Square,
with a shed before the door, there
are perhaps 30 such houses in this Village
and a number more down the River
out of Sight, and some above, the
Houses are beautifully situated on
the West side of the River, which
is about 150 Yards wide and glides
along by the town with a gentle current.
the bank of the River is low, tho gra-
-dually asscends to there Houses, which are
mostly within 6 or 7 pearchs so that they
readily supply themselves with Water
[Page 56] there being no springs on the flat where
the Town stands, which flat is a Sandy
loam, easily tilled , and if well managed
would be very productive. there are 50
or 60 Acres of Land adjoining the Town
nearly cleared, the most of this which is put
in Yearly with Corn, Beans, and Potatoes.
the Work is all done by the Women with
Hoes, they were very busy while we were
here, much of the Land was grown up
with Grass, with Weeds &c, they go round
the Old Cornhills, which were very high, as
I have observed it is the general practice
to have a hill when finished near one foot
high, and hoe the grass and weeds clean
away, then dig a hole where the hill stood
and plant in the same place, and sometime after
the Corn comes up, the hoe all the face of
the ground over, so that it looked very
neat. they plant beans with their Corn, also a
large quantity that they stick poles for,
they also plant Squashes and Pumpkins among
their corn - The Women since we came here worked
hard, they found all their Corn, for homi-
-ny, and for Bread, sift and prepare it,
Cut and Split all their Wood, and Carry
it home on their backs near a Quarter of
[Page 57] a Mile, make all there fires, and all
other Kitchen Business, plant and take
care of their corn, and gather it when ready,
Plant their Beans and stick them, and
as far as I can learn all other out
doors work, except building their houses
and Splitting the Rails that the Corn
Land is enclosed with. It has been a
busy time since we came here, the Wo-
-men have rose early, gone out with
their hoes to the Cornfield 4 or 5 in a
Company, some of whom where Old Gray
Headed Women, and some young ones of
8, 10, or 12 Years of age, stuck pretty
Close to their Work, returned in the even-
-ing weary, and go early to Bed. one
old Gray Headed Woman I have seen
steadily on the move, she has had both
her feet so froze that she goes altogether
on her knees, I have seen her carrying
in wood and making the fire, going to the Ri-
-ver and Bringing up water, I have seen
take her hoe and go 40 pearches out to
[Page 58] the Cornfield, and return in the Even-
-ing with the Labourers, and put her
hoe by, and all this while the Men are
spending their time in Idleness, such as
shooting with their bows and Arrows at a
mark which is a very great recreation
with them, pitching of Queats, Jumping,
playing at some kind of Games, and on
Musical Instruments, and loitering about
so that I have not while in this Village seen
either Man or Boy at any kind of Work,
to se little Girls, and Old Women working
hard with the hoe, and boys of 12, 14, or 16
just by them all day a playing, looked
unnatural, hard, and to me very grevi-
-ous. The Men at seasons go a hunting, and
at times a Fishing, and they Work the Canoe,
at which they are very handy, there is very
little game of any kind at this season of
the year brought in, I have seen but one
deer all the time we were among them
and, I have seen no kind of any small
Game, except the Turkey heretofore noted.
the Catch a few fish, yet but little was
done at it while we were there,
[Page 59] so that they live poor, their chief subsistence
at this season was Corn, beans, and Bears
Oyl, in different preparations, much of their
Corn and Beans, were pounded into an ho-
-miny, and Boiled, this I thought was
their Chief dependence, they also pound
Corn and Beans into a flour, and make bread
of it, they also boyl it in dumplins, which
they eat with Bear Oyl by dipping it in,
as they do also with their Bread, they
also sometimes put Oyl in there ho-
-miny, they also at times puts sugar in
it, with which it eats very well, but
from my observation they eat much less than
than we do, a small piece of Bread or dum-
-plin dipped in the Oyl seemed to satisfy
nature, and there seated meals I thought
were not more than two a day about
10 or 11 OClock, and in the Evening, if any
of their friends came to see them, the Visit was
not interrupted with Cookery, or much
Cerimony in laying the table &c. if their hominy
was boiled, which was generally the case af-
-ter 11 OClock, the day through, and it was
not material whether Cold or Warm, and
some of their acquaintance came in, the
[Page 60] Births always made a seat ready, wheren
they were presently engaged in smoak-
-ing and talking, and while thus busily
employed, a kettle of hominy with
a large Wooden spoon, is brought and
set down on the Ground before them, he
that is most handy to it lays by his
Pipe, and in a few minutes appears to be
satisfyed with his repast, and moves it on
to the next, while the rest of the Company
are engaged as if no Victuals were
near them, thus the Kettle passes th
through the Company in a little time,
and when done with, hung up, until some
-body else comes in, if they have no
hominy, the Bread, or dumplin, goes
round in like manner; there is no
trouble of laying, or clearing the ta-
-ble, or placing of Chairs, Wiping the knives
and Forks, or Changing of plates, but in
a simple and easy manner all that
cerimony is avoided.
In their Cloathing and Dress their turn
is for something tawdry; such as a gay hand-
-kerchief, Calico shirt, Scarlet Leggons,
Blue Coat, or petticoat, a belt of lively
coo colours
[Page 61] decorated with Beads tyed round their mid-
-dles, or knees, with long ends hanging
down, the are very fond of trinkets of
various kinds in there noses, and Ears,
the Men more particularly. I have seen bobs
of various kinds hanging there noses
to the weight of an Ounce, or more, coming
down over their Mouth. the Warriors
have the rim of their Ears cut round,
and loaded with different kinds of
Toys, until the hang down several
Inches. I saw one man with two padlocks
in one Year, such as are used for Saddle-
bags, another with a Watch, such as
Children use. large silver Crosses are
also made use of. their Calico shirts are
short and & have ruffles to their sleeves
& Bosoms. the Men and Womens are both made
in the same form, they come a little lower
than their Hips, and hangs loose at the
lower end, the Women wearing their
Petticuts Petticoats over under them, which
petticoats are mostly made of blue
Cloath, without any needlework, exept
the stitching some red Worsted binding
[Page 62] on about 9 Inches of the upper part; their
way of making and putting them on is, to take
a piece of Cloath perhaps 1½ Yards long
turn down the upper part as above described, which
part is spread over with Ribbons,
then Wrap it tite round them, and
tye it with a string, their shift as
mentioned, hanging the out side, such
who suckle lift up their Shirts for the Child
to get at the pap, which Conduct to those
who are unacquainted with it may look
immodest, but it is not the case, for
a Child is so suckled, and less of the
Mothers skin shown than is customa-
-ry among our farmers Wives, -
With all their tawdry and liveliness in
dress the go dirty, I thought the Women
more particularly so than the Men, per-
-haps from their working harder, and
being more among the grease, some of their shirts
don’t appear to be ever Washed, and
about their Sholders the become very
black and greesy, from their greesy
heads; their hair I have observed to be
the Cloath to wipe their greasy fingers
[Page 63] in, while eating their bread and Oyl.
thus for want of a change of Cloaths, and
living in their dirt, they become very
lowsy, which they try to extrecate them
-selves from, by pulling of their shifts,
turning them inside outwards, and
hunting the Vermon with as much com-
-possure, and seemingly good grace,
as a Mother amongst us would do, in
combing one of her Children, and this
part of their dirt has not been one of the
least of our trials, neither have we any
expectation of leaving them, without
carrying away some breeders.
For more than two weeks past the weather
has been very dry, part of the time a Cold
north wind, we had frost for ten Mornings
successively, during which time we slept
in open Cabins, in our blankets, so that
we sensible felt the want of more cover-
-ing, and a better Bed before morning.
for two or three days past the weather has
been warm, with a strong South wind.
the Woods has been much on fire dur-
-ing this dry weather, Clouds of smoke
[Page 64] have frequently covered us, so that the
Sun has been hid. A curious Sight present-
-ed two nights ago, of some neighbouring
Hills or rather mountains that were on fire,
perhaps the had not been burnt for seve-
-ral Years, and the great quantity of dead
timber, both standing and laying down,
having taken fire as it passed along,
which made a very lively appearance in
the night, looking as if the whole Mountain
was on fire. – We have been under
some exercise for a few days past concern-
-ing our goods, which are coming up
the River, we haveing very little cause to
expect their arrival before the last of
this Month, and the dry weather has
been such for some time past, that the
River has fallen very fast, which the
Indians remarked to us with some degree
of seriousness, saying that it would be
with difficulty the Boat could be ~
brought up some Shallow places, but in
the midst of our trials we have still
been favoured; a considerable quantity of
rain fell last Evening, tho no diffi-
-rence yet appears in the River, there
[Page 65] is some reason to hope it will rise.
We intended to have set of this Morning
by Eight OClock for Genesinguhta, and
and agreed with Henry Obeal last
evening to go with us, and be our en-
-terpretter; it is now eleven OClock, yet nei-
-ther he, nor his Fathers family have got
their breakfast, tho we have been hurry-
-ing him for two hours past, about 12 two
of us set of on horse back, the other three
having started an hour sooner with
one Indian in a Canoe; we rode the
River one mile above the Town, and
went up the Eastside of it, to said Town
our first 3 or 4 miles was through an Open bot-
-tom, thinly timbered, and good riding, then
passed through thick Timber, a large quan-
-tity of which were Sugar Maple, thence
through a thick Forrest of Hemlock, and
pine, very difficult to pass, to the shore
opposite the place of destination; here we
again rode the River tho wide and
deep, we stoped at the House of a Chief who
went with us to our intended Settlement,
here we met with our friends who went
[Page 66] in the Canoe. We viewed an Empty house
that on stood near our Settlement, we
but not liking it, we proceeded to ano-
-ther that was on it said settlement wherein a family
lived, we understood they proposed
leaving it, and would sell their right,
upon conferring with the Woman, who
we understood was the owner of the
house, she was willing to part with the
house but having put in a few spots
with Corn and Vines, the whole not more
than 3 or 4 pearch Square, she was appeared
unwilling to relinquish them, and they
were so in our way, that we thought we
had better look elsewhere for a settlement,
but upon the Chiefs conferring with her,
she was willing to part with each of the
spots except one which was not much in
our way, and we understanding she
was a sober Woman that would be likely
to make good use of the Money, we paid her 20
dollars for her house and previligdges,
and with our assistance she removed out
and in less than an hour we had possission
[Page 67] our young men gave it the house a thorough cleaning,
and before dark our scanty furniture was
arranged for House-keeping, and having
supped on our preparations, which admitted
of but little change, we prepared for bed in
our open house, and naked Walls, the Indi-
-an Chief at our request sent us three
deerskins with the hair on, which which
we placed for our Conveniency, and re-
-tired, but we sensibly felt before morn-
-ing the want of a better bed and more Clothes.
the night being cold we were under the
necessity of rising several times to re-
-new our fire. Our house is about 20
feet long, 14 feet wide, and 6 feet high to the
Square, Covered with bark, and a shed over
the door, and finished within as is usual
in Indian buildings, it stands on an ele-
-vated spot within five Pearch of the River,
on its Northwest side, the soil about
it said house is of a light sandy quality, easy to be
tilled; but further from the River is lower
ground, which and appears more fertile.
Our horses since we came among the
Indians has run out, without enclosing:
[Page 68] they have had pretty plenty pretty of Coarse grass, and
other herbages, but here they have plen-
-ty of grass, and that which is very good.
24 Our young men this morning planted
some Potatoes, and they are now pre-
-paring some ground fit for the Plough, for
Corn, having when we came up borrow-
-ed some tools of Cornplanter. we had
a present of fish this morning, on which
we expect deliciously to dine, - Our
Young Men have prepared some bobs
in order to try to catch some Eells
this evening, set of up the River
with a Canoe, but there being a con-
-siderable rapid to ascend, which for
want of more experience in working
the vessel, they fail’d getting up, the Canoe
turning across the Stream in such a
manner, that it took in Water, and
presently turned bottom upwards, so
that some of them got very wet, which
put an end to their Eel catching; shortly
after they returned we had several very
heavy showers, wich which convinced
us our house was not proof against
[Page 69] Storms, for the rain beat in at the end,
Roof, and other places. –-
We have been keeping house about a
week, and experience much inconveni-
-ency for want of the arrival of our
goods, having but five Tins, three
Spoons, and a Camp kettle, we have a
small frying pan which we borrowed
of the Indians, dish cloths, and towels
we are much at a loss for, as we are
for Soap when we wash our Cloaths,
the want of something to knead our bread
in is sensibly experienced, which would
not be the case if we had Tools; when
we fry our meat, or our fritters, we have
neither Dish, nor plate to put them on, but oc-
-cupy bark. We brought Bacon with
us from Pittsburgh, which we have us-
-ed very spareingly, it is nearly run
out, and our Cheese quite. we have no pros-
-pect of supplying their place until our
goods arrive. we have a little flour left
that we brought from Franklin, Cho-
-colate & Sugar that we brought from Pitts-
Burgh, which are our chief living and depen-
-dance. as we have received some Sugar of the
[Page 70] Indians as a present, and some we pur-
-chased, which we find a pretty good sub-
-stitute for butter, and Cheese, by bitting
a bit of Sugar, which is in a hand cake,
with our Bread. – while at the lower
Town we got 2 Quarts of Milk a day,
but since we came here we have re-
-cieved none, nor are there ever a
Cow here. –-
25 several heavy showers last night, still
wet this morning, about 10 OClock, it clear-
-ed away, put up some fence to keep our
horses of the Indians, Corn, as what
little they have put in here, lies unen-
-closed. the River has been rising all
day, so that there is plenty of water
for our Boat to come up.
26 mostly busy in getting a spot of land
fit for the Plough, and some other
necessary preparations, one of our
number has been busy in plaistering
the Cracks of our house, it having
cleared up from Northwest last even
-ing, and our house being very open
we suffered with the Cold.
[Page 71]
I may just note that there is a great appear-
-ance for strawberries here on some part
of the Old Indian fields.
27 and 1st of the week, I neglected noting in its
proper place, that fifth day last about 11
OClock we retired into our humble Cabin,
and were favoured to witness the over-
-shadowing Wing of Consoling goodness,
to the Comforting and contriting of our
Spirits, and this day we had a like Op-
-pertunity, and were I thought alike
favoured, may such seasons be remembred
with gratitude, and with thankfulness and may
our young friends be encouraged &
strengthened to keep up such religious
oppertunities when we are far separated, which I
trust they will. this is the fifth day since
we came to this Town, we brought but
little provision with us here, having
but little to bring, and had a hope we
should have been able to have got
some dryed Venison of the Indians here, which has
not been the case, we got a little Bears Oyl
of them, but that article is scarce, and
dear, this day intending to have made
[Page 72] a dinner of some flitters, our Bread
being nearly out, and our flour so re-
-duced as to discourage attempting to
bake; while we were frying our
flitters, an Indian man came in
in and presented us with about four Pounds of fresh Ve-
-nison without any bone in it; part of
which we immediately fryed, which
with our flitters made us the most a-
-greeable dinner we have met with
in the Indian Country, we sat down
to it with thankful hearts for so unex-
-pected a supply. we gave the Indian
a Quarter of a dollar, for his Venison,
which he recieved with an apparant
reluctance, but as he could not speak no
English, we were altogether at a loss
to know, whether it proceeded from
what we gave him being too much, or
too little, but the same afternoon he took
three of us down in a Canoe to Corn-
-planters Village to attend a general
Council that was to be held there
tomorrow, he took the Money with him
and gave it to Cornplanter, and said
something to him in Indian, which being
was, that the Venison he brought us was
[Page 73] a gift, and he wished not to recieve any
money for it, and the money was handed back
to us, which we immeadiately presented to
him for his the his trouble of bringing
us down in his Canoe, which he reciev-
-ed with Chearfulness.
28 Two of our number whom we left at Genesin-
-guhta to take care of our horses, House &c.
came down this Morning, and a number of
Indians being Collected, about 12 we met them
in Council, there being between 30 and 40, six
of whom were there most respectable Women, early
in the Oppertunity Cornplanter made a pretty
length speech, which it did not appear to be di-
-rected to us, which our interpretter informed
was for an Indian then in the House, who
had been charged with Murdering a White
Man, for which he had been in Jail at
Pitts-burgh, and tryed for his Life, but be-
-ing acquitted by the Jury, he was now at
Liberty; the trial and Court expences, we
understood had cost Cornplanter more
than 200 dollars; tho there was not evidence
to support the charge, yet there was cause to fear
it was too true, and the Chiefs speech appear-
-ed to be delivered with much earnest, and
serious expostulation. Cornplanter then
[Page 74]
directed his speech to us, expressing his satisfaction in see-
-ing us all in good health, then informing, some
of his People were gone out a hunting, &
if we had any thing to propose to them
they were now ready, being all collected
that would come. After a Short time of
silence wherein we felt an earnest tra-
-vel, we might be renewedly favoured,
a suitable introductory speech was made
on our part, and then the following con-
-clusions of the 22nd were read, and enterpret-
-ted
7.
To Cornplanter and all our Indian
Brothers of the Seneca Nation, now living
on the Allegeny River.
Brothers,
We have now been several days
among you, and have had Councils with
your Chiefs, and Wise Men, and have had
looked about your Country, and agreed
upon a place for our Young Men to be-
-gin upon, and we are glad and thank
-ful to the great Spirit, that every thing
we have proposed for your good, has been
so agreeable to your Minds, that we seem
to agree together like Brothers, having
but one mind in every thing that we
[Page 75] do; and we hope Brothers, we shall con-
-tinue to be of one Mind about all the things
we have been speaking to you of.
Bothers, you know the place we have chosen
for our Young Men to begin upon, at Genisengh
-guhta, and we hope some some of your young men
will settle by them, and fence of lots for themselves
as they see them fence of theirs, & our young men
will be willing to assist and instruct them in work-
-ing their lots; And we think our young men will
will not be able to raise any more of their lot
this year, than what they will want for themselves
to live on; but we hope against another year
they will have a little to have; and we are willing
they should give to your old and inform people that
cant work, one bushel out of four of all the grain &c
they have to spare,
Brothers, in order to encourage you still more to
take up work like the White people and to
follow those ways we pointed out to you,
we will agree to help you a little more.
Brothers, we will send you Smiths Tools,
when our young shall Write us word you
stand in need of them.
Brothers, if you are industerous this Sum-
-mer and raise a good deal of Corn and
some Wheat, we will help you to build a Grist-
Mill next summer, if a suitable place can
be found for it; you must find half the Mo-
-ney to build this Mill, and we will find the
[Page 76] other half; and we hope Brothers, you will
save some money you get from the White
People between now and that time; that
so you may have your share ready against
next spring; and we think you had bet-
-ter choose one of your Chiefs to keep this
Money for you, till the time it is wanted;
or perhaps your Money may be all gone,
for Whiskey or something that wont do you
so much good as a Mill would.
Brothers, we are also willing to encourage you
to take up work, and learn farming, by
agreeing to give some small premiums to
such of our Indian brothers, who are indus-
-terious and raise a good deal of Grain.
Brothers, we will give to every Indian Man
living on this River, who shall raise
25 bushels of Wheat or Rye, in one Year
on his own land not worked by white peo-
-ple the sum of two dollars.
2nd. For every 50 bushels of Corn raised by one
Man in like manner afforsaid, we will give
two dollars.
3rd. For every 50 bushels of Potatoes raised
by any one man in like manner aforsaid,
the sum of two dollars.
[Page 77]
4th. For every two Tons of hay raised as
aforsaid, and put into a Stack or Barn,
not being Mowed or drawn in by white
People, the sum of two dollars.
5th. For every 12 Yards of linnen Cloath made
by any Indian Woman, out of Flax raised
on her or her husbands land, and spun in
her own house the sum of two dollars, to
be paid to the Woman.
6th. For every 12 Yards of Woollen or Lindsey
Cloath, made by any Indian Woman, out
of the Wool of her own, or her husbands Sheep
Spun in her own hourse, the sum of two
dollars, to be paid to the Woman.
Brothers, we will give you these premiums for
four years, if our young men stay here so
long; upon these conditions, that the person
so applying who applies, for the Premium,
must produce a Certificate from two of the
Chiefs, signifying the quantity of Grain,
Cloath,&c for which the premium is de-
-manded; and that it was raised or made in
the manner aforsaid above mentioned,
and that the person so applying has not
been intoxicated with Whiskey, at
[Page 78] least for the term of six months before
that time. -- And our friends Henry
Simmons, Joel Swayne, and Hilladay Jack-
-son are hereby authorised, and desired
to pay the above Premiums, agreeably to
what is herein before expressed. --
8.
We then were favoured seriouly to
expostulate with them on various subjects
retative to their Moral, and Civil Con-
-duct, particularly there excessive use
of Strong drink, divers instances of
which we had been Eye witnesses of,
since among them, several of their Wo-
-men had having been thus disguised; some of
them appeared Solid, and heard us
with attention, but as far as I have ob-
-served since among them, little or no
Shame covers an Indian for getting
drunk. -- They informed us they
would withdraw a little while into ano-
-ther Room, and confer on our propos-
-als, which doing, in about an hour
they returned, and made us an answer
in substance as follows,
[Page 79]
9.

Brothers, we now hear all what you would
wish to do among us; you are come here
to see us Brothers; you wish us well; you
wish us to become as the White People;
the White People are rich and got every
thing, the Indians are Poor, and got have
nothing.
Brothers, you told us one thing; it be
good for us to build a Mill; we must
find 400 dollars, and you will find
400 dollars.
Brothers, we cant say but few Words
at this time about this Mill; we
will consult Captain Chapin, if he
thinks we will recieve our money;
and will be able to raise the money you
propose, then we will do it
Brothers, we know how far you have come
to see us, it is a great way; from the
Seashore where our forefathers once liv-
-ed: the White People have cheated us,
and got our land from us, and now
[Page 80] we have but little left, we will try to
learn your way.
Brothers, you know there are some
bad People amongst us, and you know
we have been cheated, and that makes
us bad, and our Minds uneasy; if we
had not been cheated we should have
been very rich People, and had plen-
-ty of every thing, and then our Minds
would be easy, and we could think on
the good Spirit.
Brothers, the reason I mention to you a-
-bout our being Cheated, some of my War-
-riors wont mind what I say unto them;
but will have their own way, because
they know I often have been Cheated
by the White People; If I had never been
cheated, then my Warriors would believe
me, and mind what I say to them, but
now they wont mind.
Brothers, we cant all go to work at once
some of my Warriors will go a hunting
to get Provisions, and sometimes they broke
[Page 81] a Gun, and then it takes a great deal of
money to get a new one, we have very
few Hoes, and Axes, and such things amon-
-gst us, and we are not able to get them.
Brothers, I will go along with you to Canan
darque, and there we will get matters settled
about the Mill, and bring it back to your
young men in Writing.
Brothers, this is all I have now got to say
we will now Shake hands.
10.
At the close of this speech we expressed a few words
more, representing among other things the un-
-reasonableness of their present practice, of
their Mothers, Wives, and Sisters, working
all day in the fields, and in the Woods, with
their hoes, and axes, whilst they themselves
were at the same time playing with their
Bows and Arrows &c recommending to them
to begin our way by early setting their boys
to business, taking them out to how Corn &c
thus by early habitting them to Work, their
Minds will be turned to it, business will
become familier, and they will not think
hard of it. and as they expressed the White
People were rich and had plenty, we let them
[Page 82] know it was by industry it Was obtained
the men doing their share of business
in the fields, &c thereby leaving the Wo-
-men more time to attend to spinning,
sewing, darying &c in the house.
We concluded with seriously impressing
on their Minds the remembrance, that
it was from the good Spirit they re-
-cieved every good thing, and that he
could hear every good Word they said,
and see every thing they did, and if they
were good, and industerous, this good
Spirit would love them, and bless them
with many good things. In a few minutes
after we had concluded, and informed them
we had done, Cornplanter Observed, now
all things were done, and settled, we
will cover up the Council fire.
We had no provision of our own here,
therefore concluded to stay and dine with
the Chief, about five Oclock we had a
loaf of Warm Indian Bread with a mix-
-ture of Beans that had been boiled till
they were softish nea kneaded up in it
the Bread and baked that was set before us, the
bread had been was baked in a Dutch Oven
[Page 83] having a small quantity of Bears Oyl put
into the oven with it, and when part
baked the loaf was turned over with a
fresh supply of Oyl, we t this was all we
had set before us; they informed us they had no
meat, and we had heretofo shewn our dislike
to bread diped in Oyl; however with a
good Appatite it went down very well, but
before we had fully done a little butter was
set before us on the Table that they had obtained some
-where in the Village. -- We now got half
a £ of flour of Cornplanter for which he
made no charge, and four Quarts of bears
Oyl of his wife, which she claiming as her
property charged us half a dollar a Quart,
these our Young men took up this evening with them
to Genesinguhta, togather with what
Chocolate we had, this evening; leaving
John Pierce and myself here to wait the
arrival of our goods
29 In the council yesterday we informed the
Indians that John Pierce and myself expected
in a few days to be at liberty in a few days
to leave them, and return to our families
and Friends; and since the concluding
[Page 84] of the Council we see nothing but what
we might set of in a day or two if our
goods were arrived come; we have not
heard any from of them since we left
Pitts-Burgh, but hope they will shortly
arrive, as tomorrow closes the 18th day,
being the time stipulated for there delivery coming
here, -- Our situation is diffirent from
what it was when we were here al-
-together, we then had a room much
to ourselves, and cooked our own
Victuals, we now board with Corn-
-planter, who uses us kind, and as
well as his house will afford, We have
⟨had⟩ Tea made of the Root of Sassifras, also
of an herb like fern, and thin cakes
of wheat Bread baked, or rather fryed
in a pan they eat very well, so that
we have no cause to complain of our
living if it was not for their dirt, and
their lice &c which try’s us. --- we enquir-
-ed Our road from Pittsburgh here, was
pretty much of a Northeast coarse, and
[Page 85] part of it very rough and tedious, so that
we have been desirous of finding a [?]
nearer, and better way home, we early en-
-quired of Cornplanter if there was any path
from this Town across the Mountains to
the big Island on Susquehanna at the
mouth of Baldegle Creak, he informed us
there was a path, but it which was but little
used, and through a rough uninhabited
Country, we should have to lay out at nights,
carry provision for ourselves, and some for
our horses, and that it would take us five
days to travel it and it was so Moun-
-tainous and rough, that it would be with
the greatest difficulty we could get our hor-
-ses along, we then enquired for a way to
Canandarque, and how far, he told us it was
160 miles, and not a very difficult road,
that he and his Son Henry were going
there in a few days, and he would be
glad of our Company; we had felt some
little draft in our Minds to go home by O-
-neida, and Canandarque being in the way which made the Chiefs proposal of the
[Page 86] Chiefs, of bearing us Company to Canandar-
-que feel pleasant, but about this date a
runner from the Chiefs of Buffaloe, arriv-
-ed at Cornplanters Village with a mes-
-sage to him, desiring his attendance
there as soon as he conveniently could
for the Surveyers and commissioners from
Robert Morris and Company were coming
to run out the land the Indians sold them
last fall, and also to run and settle the
lines of the Indians reservations, they
Chief expressed a great desire John Peirce
and myself should go with him to the
Council and attend there while the business
was transacting, which upon weighing, we
let him know we felt a freedom comply to go
with him. -- While we were writing
this afternoon we heard an uncommon
noise, which caused us to look out to
see from what it proceeded, where we
saw a Man in a frightful Dress, we
then walked out more fully to view
the sight, where we saw two Men
with naked Arms, Thighs, and legs,
they had Bearskins on their backs
[Page 87] which hung down below their hips, and
tyed together across their breasts, and on
their head they had a grim and Terrible
appearance, this false face, for so it was
called, was made as frightfull as nature
could invent, the hair on its head hang-
-ing forward and over the face; the Mouth gr
grinning, large, and much aside; the
nose, and Cheeks Wrinkled and very
Huge; the Eyes set around with tin to re-
-semble the uncommon stearing, and the
whole face painted red and black, each
of these Men had in their hands a stick
of about 8 Inches in length fastened
to a [?] shell of a Water Tortise, the which
Shells had some small stones or other
hand substances in them, which made
a great rattleing: which noise was much
much increased by their reubbing
them against the Logs of a certain
house where they appeared to be sta-
-tioned as guards the whole conduct of these
Men were appeared to be truly frantick.
a large number of spectators at a consider-
-able distance surrounded the house where
[Page 88] where the men appeared to be plac-
-ed as guards, many of whom were young
Men, who endeavored to peep through
the Craks of the Logs into the House, and
these guards used their great exertion
to keep them off, or to catch them, it look-
-ed dreadful to fall into their hands, which
made the Young men use great endeavours
to avoid it, I asked our Young interpretter what
would be the Consequence if any of them
should be taken, he said they would put Ashes
on their Heads, and very much dgrade
them, we saw a number of elderly Women go-
-ing into the house, whom these monsters quietly let pass
from which Circumstance and some others,
we were of the mind there was a women in
Labour in said house, and this Wild scene
was transacted, as a Ceremony, or rejoic-
-ing, at the Birth of a Child, or else to
keep the Boys and Young Men from com-
-ing nigh the house or looking in, as there
construction was such as not to admit
of Privacy, Our interpretter was a
Young Man and did not seem fully to
understand, or else did not care to tell
[Page 89] the cause of the Womens being there:
but said they had met there for a frolic, and
to drink Whiskey, but as far as we could dis-
cover -cover neither their conduct, nor
Countenances answered this description.
30 This day near 12 OClock while I was writing
a letter to my Dear Wife and Family, Corn-
-planters wife with an expression of Joy on
her Countenance came into our appart-
-ment, and pointing with her hand down
the River expressed as plain as she could,
Canoe, Canoe, it struck us immeadi-
-ately that our Boat was a coming, --
which was agreeable news to us we went
directly to the River side, but not
observing it any where in view, she
pointed with her hand across a bottom
is so sensible a manner, that it left no
remaining doubt she but she had seen
it, in a little time the Boat came
safely along by the side of the Town,
the arrival of which was heartily
welcomed, both by us, and the Indians
many of the latter gathering around the Shore, hav-
-ing never seen such a boat before, most of them being
[Page 90] only acquainted with Canoes, the Captain
informed us he did not leave Pitts burgh until
three days later than he had given expected,
that he had been fifteen days a coming, and
that it was 270 miles to follow the Coarse of
the River, both he and his Men appear-
-ed tired, expressing much satisfaction they
had gotten here, not expecting we would
want them to go further, but when we
let them know our house was nine miles
up the River, and that we wanted the
goods taken there, the submitted to com-
-ply, with much reluctance, and not until
we first engaged to give them three dol-
-lars extraordinary, and half a dollar to
an Indian to Pilot them, the Captain
saying he was a stranger higher up the River.
We have been entirely unable since our
arrival here to have any Conversation
with the Indians without an interpretter their being very few
amongst them who understand any English
& fewer who can, or will express one word,
and our interpretter not being ready at the
the business it was a discouragement to us, to
touch on religious subjects. we had a
[Page 91] strong desire to know if they had any religius
Rites or Ceremonies amongst them, and last
evening we ha having some conversation with Cornplan-
-ter on the Subject, he informed us, they had
two Solemnities in a year, when it was the
practice for their men and women, gene-
-rally to meet together in one place; the
first was in the spring, the other in the
fall about the time Corn was ripe; the lat-
-ter as a time or rejoicing, and to re-
-turn thanks to the great Spirit for this
Blessing. the did not keep the first day
of the week, but every one tryed to think
good in his own Mind; and as we could
he queried read the Bible he queried
whether there was anything said in it
about the Indians, we informed him the
Bible mentioned all nations, kindreds,
Tongues, and People, and that included
the Indians, and we would have been glad
to have mentioned to told him, tho the Indians
could not read the Bible yet they were
not Wholy deprived of the benefits of the
coming of Christ, for that a manifestation
[Page 92] of his Spirit or measure of his Grace was
placed in each of their hearts, and would
if minded, or given way to reprove for
all wicked words, and Wicked actions,
an well also produce peace for well do-
-ing, but this was too refined and deli-
-cate a Subject for our enterpretter to han-
-dle. -- I have not been able fully to
learn what number of Indians this Village
contains, but Cornplanter informed us
that there were about 400 persons
Young and Old under his Superentend-
-ency, much the larger half of whom are
in or near this Town; he also informed
us, that in his whole district there were
three horses, 14 cow kind, besides one
Yoke of Oxen, and 12 hogs.
31 About 9 OClock this morning John Peirce
and myself to took our last farewell of the
Indians in this place, and set of with
Cornplanter, his son Henry, and a Nephew
up the River in a Canoe, to his sawmill
where we took leave of the Chief and his
son for the present, with a promise that
they would call on us at our house at
[Page 93] Genesinguhta in five days, for to go on
with us to the mouth of Buffaloe in order
to attend a Council there, the Nephew and
a Son of the Dutchmans who tends the
Sawmill, took us up to our farm, were
we found our goods had safely arrived
about two hours before, and were all
unloaded and taken up to our house
House door. in about two hours, the
Boatmen having got their business ac-
-complished, respectfully bid us fare-
-well, and with Chearful Countenances
went merily down the lively Current
expecting in four days to arrive at
Pitts-Burgh. -- This afternoon was spent
in unpacking our goods, drying such
as were wet, and stowing them away in our
Cabin, which proved too small for the
purpose, however we got them arranged
in such a manner, as to leave a pretty
good Conveniency for house keeping, we
now experienced a great Change, our
naked Walls, empty house, and bare cup-
-board, met with a rich supply; our hard
and Cold beds, were warmed and softened
[Page 94] with blankets; we were now able to
make a Cup of Tea, or Coffee, tho with-
out Milk; or Butter; and we have Bacon
or Cheese to eat with, our bread, our
Change being so great that one of our
Young Men says they want nothing but a
Cow to make their living equal to Chester Coun-
-ty.
6 one 1 We were busy this Morning in hang-
-ing our Grindstone, and in putting han-
-dles in some of our tools, John Peirce
and myself accompanyed by an Indian
Chief went up the River in a Canoe near
one Mile above our Settlement, to view
a Stream that was on the Opposite shore
which we were informed was suitable for
to build a Mill on: upon viewing it
we found plenty of fall, and suffici-
-ency of Water for a Grist Mill, tho
the stream was not large, it came down
between some high hills, 25 feet pearch
of a headrace would carry the water
high enough for the purpose, and
within five pearch of the River is a
very suitable band to erect a mill on
[Page 95] where a Tolerance might be readily dug
into the River so that Canoes could come
up to the Mill door, a large quantity
of suitable flat stone for building may might
be readily got on the spot to do such
StoneWork as might be thought neces-
-sary, but against these advantages the
Mill will stand on the North side of a
high Hill loaded with timber so that
the Sun in the Winter season will make
but little impression, and the headrace
will have to be carryed 15 or more pearches
alone the side of a verry steep stony bank
so that it will be with great difficulty a
race can be made for the purpose, a Mill
might be built 10 pearches from the River
above the Rocks, but then Canoes could
not be brought to the Mill by reason of
the great fall in the Stream. we thought
by raising a dam 4 feet high, the water
might be taken out below the Rocks so
as to have 8 or 10 feet head and fall.
as far as we have been able to discouver
streams suitable for Mills are very scarce
on this River.
[Page 96]
2nd This day for the first time I under-
-took to wash some Shirts, tho we are
housekeeping, and all our goods are
come, yet we have neither Tub, nor Pail
not any Brass kettle so that our Conveniencies
for washing are few, my Shirts were very
dirty, yet I thought for a Young hand they
were done pretty Well.
3rd and 1st the Week, Our Young Men were
all engaged in writing letters home, so
that it fell to my lot to do cook and do
the Kitchen Work. -- we are visited
every day by more or less of the Indians
who are much pleased with viewing va-
-rious kinds of our goods, which satisfaction
is increased by our giving them some little
matters. Two Indians, one being a Chief paid
us a visit this Morning, and we were being employ-
-ed in Writing and reading, and endea-
-voured to let them know that we did not
work on first day, tho we found it difficult
to make them sensible of the reason
why we cease there from, -- We shewed
them Howells Map of Pennsylvania,
with which they were much diverted
and seemed to understand it pretty
well, particularly the Allegeny River
[Page 97] and the large streams which run into
it. -- Since our coming into these parts
we have kept meetings twice a week, our
opportunity to day to felt like a parting meeting,
and a travel was experienced for the pre-
-servation of our Young Men whom we
expect Shortly to leave, it was a time where-
-in we witnessed our Strength renewed ----
Some days latterly has been warm yet the nights are
Cool, so that bedcloaths feels pleasant, since
our goods arrived John Pierce and myself,
who are Bedfellows, have steadily had four
Blankets under us, and the same number
above, yet none to many. -- We have
had much Wet weather for a Week past,
so that we have been prevented as yet, from
setting the Plough to go, but if the weather
suits, hope to start it tomorrow, having
two Acres of Ground dearly ready. ----
The River has perhaps double the water in now
that it had some time ago, yet nearly as clear
as common. -- we have had to ad-
-mire the Quantity of fog that fills the
Atmosphere every morning, so that I do
not recollect seeing the Sun rise clear
since we came her. -- And as it has
been a rainy damp time latterly, Clouds of
fog are frequently rising out of the River.
[Page 98] the lower parts of some Mountains
near our Settlement, which fog ascends
said Mountains in thick Colums un-
-usual to what I have been acquainted
with.
4th Much rain fell last night, the morn-
-ing still wet, we expected Cornplanter
and some other Indians, to have called
on us this Morning to set off for Buf-
-faloe, but before Six OClock Cornplan-
-ters Son Henry, and another Indian
with each having no other covering on, tho raining
fast, than a Calico Shirt, and Clout,
arrived here, being sent by the Chief
to inform us, that a Considerable
number of Indians were going with
him to Buffaloe, who were not fully
ready but would call on us tomorrow
this information was more than we expected
and was satisfactory felt fully [?] of there not going to
day, as it was wet, and by no means
fit to travel through the bushes
5th The sun made its appearance [?]
this Morning, and there is some pros-
[Page 99] -pect of a pretty pleasant day for traveling
and not knowing what Minute Cornplan-
-ter and his Company would call on us, we
felt our Minds baptized at with the prospect
of a seperation, and sat down together
to take a parting Oppertunity, it was an
endearing time of retirement, wherein
the Canopy of divine Love was spread over
us, to the Contriting of our Spirits, and
a living travel was experienced, that
as the time was we nearly approached when we ex-
-pected to part, that Ancient good-
-ness might be near to them that stayed,
to Comfort, Strengthen, and preserve, in
their lonely Cottage, and ardious under-
-taking; which considering the many favours
we have experienced since we set out
on the presant business, there was
no Cause to doubt, but as they were tru-
-ly watchful, and attentive on their part,
would still be continued. -- And that
we who are going might still continue
to experience the Lords protecting Pow-
-er through a Solatary Wilderness, and
tedious Journey. ----
[Page 100]
We have been holding ourselves in readiness
since six OClock this morning, having
our horses most of the time prepared ready to mo
mount with a few minutes notice, ex-
-pecting Cornplanter and his Company
to have called on us, but it is now
near sunset and the have not made
there appearance, nor sent any no reason
why, so that we continue to find patience
a necessary Virtue to have in possession
we have had a few a light showers to day, but
a prospect of a beautiful Evening, &
a clear setting sun.
6th A very foggy morning with some
rain, both us and our horses have
been very much afflicted with a small
fly or gnat since we came on this River,
they are so troublesome particularly morn-
-ing and evening, that it is disagreeable
doing business out of doors, our young
men frequently made a smoke to fend
them of, the horses have been so bit
with them, that the thin parts of the
skin was all rise up in bumps. and
we were informed, that the Muschetoes
[Page 101] and a green headed fly will be so trou-
-blesome in a while, that horses and Cattle
wont thrive or will rather fall away.
After waiting with some degree of impatience
until between two and three OClock this
afternoon, we were visited by Cornplan-
-ter, his Son Henry, and two Other Indians,
the Chief informed us, that one of his daugh-
-ters was taken very ill yesterday, and a
relation that lived in his family had fell of a
horse and broke his arm, which had pre-
-vented his coming sooner, and that now
he could not he could not go with us for
three days on their account, for which
he was very sorry, but if we did not like to
wait so long, he would hire a guide and send
with us. We informed him we were
very sorry circumstances had happened
so as to prevent our us from having his com-
-pany, but believed it would be best for
us to set of tomorrow Morning, for we
wished to spend a few days with our friend
in Canada, and in Seven days we hoped
we could meet him in Buffaloe, where he
said he intended to be on that day if the
state of his famaly would permit, a guide
[Page 102] was accordingly provoided, who engaged
to call on us tomorrow morning by sun-
-rise ---- a heavy shower of rain this even-
-ing, so our going home which way
we will looks discouraging, on account
of getting over some large Waters; this
River for several days past has been
near three feet higher than when we first
came. ---- our going up and down this
river while among the Indians
makes 45 miles
7th About Sunrise this Morning our
guide, Indian John a Chief that lives in
this Town called on us, and being ready
to take our departure; about 5 OClock
we took an affectionate farewell of
our Young Friends and set of for the
mouth of Buffaloe, we went up the Ri-
-ver about five miles, through a very
thick Wood, and a great quantity of
Windfel timber, there was a large pro-
-portion of young stuff growing up, and
next to no path; we frequently got very
wet from the bushes, we then left the River
to our right and went up a fine Country
heavily timbered, mostly white pine, having
[Page 103] a small Creek at some distance on out right
and for 3 for[?] in 3 or 4 miles we passed through an
Old Indian field, thence up and the aforsaid
water through some very good Champion land with a
very luxuriant growth of grass, and Weeds
of various kinds, some swamps and very
thick wood about 4 miles, thence entred
a rough hilly country, heavy timbred, mostly hemlock and I thought thin land for 7 or 8 miles a
large quantity of which was down, so that
what with the hills, the logs, the Brush &
the swampy gutts it required patience and a good
Stock of Spirits; I mentioned to my Companion
sometime after we set of this this morning
that my Mind, was uncommonly easy, cheer-
-ful, and sweet, so that I passed along, in a
lively and well qualifyed state to make tra-
veling pleasant, but before Evening I foun[d]
my stock of spirits was much exhausted. About
11 O Clock we had a very heavy Rain, such an
one as but seldom happens, it lasted perhaps
an hour, so that we got very wet, when it
abated we stopped and barked some trees
to have a trough to feed our horses out
of, and taking some refreshment ourselves
we mounted, having for several miles past
been riding over fine Champion land, a little
hilly and heavily loaded with and timbered, we had some fears about
[Page 104] about getting over Catarawgus this morn-
-ing before we started, and this heavy
rain increased them; however we mov-
-ed on over a fine country, tho a trying road
the Limbs, the Brush and the Logs were
ever in our way, much of the Timber in
this days ride has been Hemlock, some
Chesnut, Sugar maple, Beech, Oak &c but
as we advanced towards Catarawgus, we
had a large proportion of very fine
poplars; when we got near to the river
we passed through a very luxuriant rich
bottom, with an uncommon luxuriant growth of vegetation and about sunset arrived at
the stream, which we found to be many
pearches out of its banks at the Common
fording place, and our guide signed to us
that it would run over our horses backs
and sweep them away; we therefore being con
-cluded to pitch Camp, we were got[?] being in-
to an Open bottom where there was pretty
well of grass, so that our horses would
have done very well if it had not been
for the gnats and muschetoes; we struck
up a fire, and under some Bushes, we had
put up to keep of the due, got a pretty
[Page 105] Comfortable nights rest, having in the
evening we viewed the river above the fording
place, and we found that there was were some marks
of its having fallen an Inch or more. 35 m
⟨we saw neither house nor cabin in this days ride.⟩
8th Rose early this Morning, and upon
viewing Cateragus we found it had fell
several Inches, we therefore fed our horses
got our breakfast, and prepared for mov-
-ing, we had lodged on an Island, which our
guide took us round to the head of that so
we might have the advantage of the Cur-
-rent in Crossing it. we found the bed of the
Creek was wide, and there was a large gra-
-velly Island several pearches from for our Shor[e]
[?], we decended the Bank and rode
to it, the Water not being more than knee
deep, we then rode went down this Island 20 or more
Pearches to where our guide singn signed
for us to Cross, the Water ran very swift,
but did not appear to be as deep as he gave
us to expect, which was to come within Six
Inches of the top of our horses backs, we
mentioned signed to our guide to lead the way, he
being well mounted on Henry Simmons
Mare the largest beast in Company, but
[Page 106] showed evident marks of fear; and the task being likely
to fall on me, I pulled of my great Coat &
tyed it up well behind me, and raised
my saddlebags by putting some luggage
under them, and having previously
cut a pole to carry in my hand to mea-
-sure the depth of the stream &c, I entered
it the river without much fear, tho not without care:
and found our guide was mistaken in
its depth, and well for us he was, for
had it been as deep as he expected,
no horse could have stood before it the stream, I
got safely through, my Companons view-
-ing me with exercise of mind; when
the saw me safely landed with safety the follow
-ed, and arrived also safe with gladened
hearts; we then pursued our Journey
with chearfulness down the rich bottoms
of said stream, a great number of Poplers
large beautiful Poplars, White Oaks, Pines,
and Blackwalnuts made there appearance
also some fine natural Meadows of good grass,
and in 10 miles we arrived at a Village
of Munsy Indians in a Champion Country being the first dwellings we had seen since we left for the Allegeny hav-
-ing rode through an open Wood for 4 or
[Page 107] 5 miles past grown up with herbage of
different kinds very thick, and near thre[e]
feet high, we stopped at a house in this Village
got our & Breakfasted on our own provision. The
Town and pasture land was enclosed in
a lot of perhaps 12 or more acres which look
-ed Clean and pretty, having very good pasture
in the enclosure, where were several horses, Cows and
and swine. their houses looked pretty snug,
perhaps 18 or 20 in number; their Corn land
was down towards the River, the plant it
without any inclosure, keeping their stock
in the lot. The house we went into had
a large quantity of Corn hanging up in it,
considerably more than I saw all the time
I was at allegeny, and upon enquiring, we
understood they sell many bushels every
year to the White People, their Vicinity to
lake Erie, makes it easy conveying it down
the River there, and then it goes by Water to
new settled Countries, we were informed it
was as low as 4 or 5 shillings per Bushel,
which is low cheap for a new Country, we found
in Canada and other placed Corn Rated at
a dollar per Bushel -- Most of the principal
Men in the Village and others gathered
[Page 108] into the house where we were, and
their being a Whiteman living a-
-mongst them that could interpret, we
informed them of what we had been
doing at Cornplanters settlement, and
of the young Men we had left there to
Instruct the Indians to Plough &c, and
of friends concern for the Indians in
general; with which they expressed their
satisfaction, saying they took it very
kind that we called to see them, and to
inform them of what we had been doing
⟨at⟩ Jeniscatago, for they had heard something
about it, but they had nothing further to
say, we then shook hands with them all
round and bid them farewell, We then and
turned a little to the right, leaving Cate-
-ragus considerable to our left, and in
about 7 miles of a very swampy teadious
road, through good land abounding with
Poplars, and with other timber heavily loaded,
we arrived at Lake Erie. here we gratifyed
our eyes in a while in viewing this Ob-
-sequious Element as far as the Convex
state of the globe would admit, -- here we now
[Page 109] turned still more to the right, and went
along the beach to lake to the mouth of Buf-
-folae 29 miles, the prospect the remainder
remaining part of this day was pleasant, and it was
rather heightened by our being so long confined
in the Woods. The road was in places
good, but in other places very heavy,
that being a large the gravel being near fetlock deep.
We had the Lake on our left, the surf roling
gently to the shore in waves two or three
feet high. On our Right was a Majestick ap-
-pearance of rocks and stones piled up
in verey uniform order, in places from
20 to 60 feet high, as upright as the Wall
of a house, and in other places projecting
over several feet, the bottom of these
Rocks are wore with the bearing of the
Waves, and Sand, and Gravel, until
they are were wore into Curious shapes, and
as smooth as polished Marble, from
the tops of these Rocks the water was tr
trickling down very entertaining, I ob-
-served some Rocks standing in the edge
of the Water, as large over, and round
as a Millstone, the upper part whereof
[Page 110] was wore nearly to the shape of the largest
end of an Egg, & as round as if turned
in a leathe. In a number of places
the water came up to the Wall of Rocks,
so that we had to ride 40 or more pearch-
-es in the Water Lake in places Belly deep,
and the Water was very dirty at the
Shore with its beating the sand &c so
that we could not see the bottom, and
did not know but the next step the
horses made might take them over
their Backs, but what made it look
the most romantic was the continu-
-al beating of the Waves, which came
up against these Rocks, and the Wa-
-ter would at times fly over our heads
and sufficeintly wet the traveller. The
last 10 miles we very much left the Rocks,
and as we advanced the bank grew lower,
so that very high Westerly Winds raises
the Lake water and Waves on this side the
Lake until it overflows the Bank and
drowns a considerable Country, which is very
level, and Wet for Common. It was very
evident for a number of Miles here away
[Page 111] that the Lake is gradually moving towards
the Southeast as most of the trees which
stand along its margin has the dirt washed
away from their roots for 3, 4, or more feet
deep, and so that they are dead & falling fast; and
I thought it was as visible when on the
Canada shore opposite, that the Land was
gaining there. ---- We got to the Mouth
of Buffaloe before sunset, where we put our
saddles and Baggage into a boat wich which took
us over, and we swam our horses through the
River it being perhaps near 100 yards wide and
10 or more feet deep, here we met with a compa-
-ny of men who were going to run out Robert
Morrises late purchase of the Indians into
Townships, John Thomson an Old acquain-
-tance from Delaware County being one of the
head Surveyors, he kindly invited us to stay
all night with them, and directed a Tent to
be put up for us, we acknowledged his
kindness, and accepted his offer, after
feeding our horses we turned them out to
bare picking[?] in an open bottom, we were kind
-ly entertained, with great symplycity, on
Bread, Fish, and Chocolate; we got a pretty
good nights rest, which we wanted being weary
having traveled 45 miles, no white inhabitant for the last 80 miles
[Page 112] 9th This Morning went 4 miles on the Beach down
the Lake and the River Niagara, which is
the outlet of said Lake, to the Narrows, wh
were we Crossed the River into upper Ca-
-nada, it was ¾ of a Mile wide about 16 feet
deep, and a rough Strong Current, our
boat was narrow and tottering, and one
of the horses a little unruly so that we felt
thankful when we got safely on shore, we
then turned square to our left, up the
side of the River to the Lake, passing
by Fort Erie, then up the Margin of
the Lake on a fine firm beech that made
a beautiful Road 6 or 7 miles, then turning
square to our right in about 1 ½ miles ar-
-rived at Daniel Pounds, where we were
kindly received, and felt thankful, we
were once more among our friends. In
the afternoon we paid a visit to Joel Mor-
-reses, who were much pleased on seeing us,
and in the evening went to our my Old home
when here last fall, and kind friends
Asa Schooly and Wife, who were truly
glad to see us, and we them, here we got
a clean good Bed, which was what we had
[Page 113] not experienced since we left Pittsburgh, hav-
-ing for near four weeks slept on the ground
and on boards, in our blankets. 15 miles
10th and 1st of the week, went to see John Cutlers and
John Herits families this morning, our visit
was very acceptable, they being much pleased
to see us, we then attended the Meeting
held at Asa Schoolies, which was in a good
degree a solid, quiet oppertunity, tho te-
-dious in gathering, somewhere between
30 and 40 persons were collected, divers
of whom were hopefull Young Women.
we dined at Asa Schoolies, and in the
Afternoon, went to Joseph heavenes Haven’s &
then to Adam Burrells where among
a hopefull number of Young People we
had a refreshing time, and parted wit[h]
this family in near Affection, thence to Josep[h]
Marshes, who was a sweet spirited Wife, and
a number of hopefull Children, where we
lodged. 3 miles
10th [sic] Set of early this morning to see friends down
the Mountain, as it is called, in 7 miles
we came on the Niagara River, thence down
the River close on its Margin 18 miles to the
[Page 114] great falls, having about two miles back fer-
-ried the Chippaway River, the bridge being
broke, it said River is perhaps 100 yards Wide 10 or 12
feet deep with no perceptable Current.
at the falls I once more gratified my Eyes
in beholding this Wonderfull Phinomina
in nature, the appearance was truly
Solemn, and speaks a loud Language.
but as I have given a pretty circumstantial
account thereof in my notes when here last
fall, I think it not necessary to add, further
than we now went down a very steep bank
of 100 or more feet in hight to the Table Rock
, as it is called, which lies Horrizontal and
runs across the River, which bank we
we then thought not safe to descend when here before last fall
by reason of the sleet, or Ice that covered
the Hill, which sleet had collected from the
mist that ascended from the Voilent age-
-tation of the Water. It was now about
noon and a clear warm day, the fog that
ascended was abundantly less, than the
Cold morning I was here before, yet be-
-fore we got to the bottom of the bank
the bushes &c. became very wet, and I
[Page 115] believe had we stayed on the Rock at the
grand pitch one hour our Cloathes would
have been nearly wet through; we had now
a very fair prospect of the Water Shoot-
-ing over the Rock, and its desen descend-
-ing with very great rapidity in a per-
-pendicular direction 150 fifty feet, and
the foaming state of the River for many pearch
-es below, it was a trial and looked appeared dangerous
to go to the edge of the Rock, to look down; I
did it by going on my hands and knees,
and at the edge I found the Rock was
hollow under me for a number of feet
back, and not much above one foot
thick, I would have been glad to have
descended to the bottom of this pitch, but
we had no pilat, and there was no possibility
of getting down any where in view, nor as
I have understood short of half a mile down the
River and there, with great difficulty. After
staying about 20 minutes to view this Awful &
grand Scene, we return'd up the steep bank
with difficulty, and in four miles arrived at
Jeremiah Moores, where we were kindly rece
recieved. In about an hour after we had got
[Page 116] here, in about one hour after, a friend from
the Short Hills, came in, particularly
requsting that Jeremiah More and John Hill
would come up to their Assistance, a
difficulty having taken place respecting
a Meeting house they were building, so that
the Work was stoped, the friend was much
concerned about it, as was Jeremiah when he
heard the information, and they express-
-ed a great desire that we would go with
them, hoping that our assistance to accommo-
-date matters would be very usefull; we
had no prospect of going so far, and our
the time for our returning to Buffaloe, fix-
-ed, we felt cautious in any hasty result, but
let the friends know we would consider it
the request, and go in the morning with
them to John Hills, which was six miles on
the way, and where we had intened to have
gone. 24 miles
12 Set of early to John Hills where we took
breakfast and on weighing their request felt
an engagement to go with them, and it was
agreed to meet all such as could be could be
notifyed who were concerned in building the
[Page 117] house on the spot this Afternoon at 2 O Clock
and Joshua Gilham the friend who came do
down and another friend went on to give
the necessary information; we went on with
John Hill and Jeremiah More to Joshua Gilhams
12 miles, where we left our horses, and went over
to John Taylors and got our Dinner, thence
to the Meeting house, where we met with
most of the Men professions likely to Constitute
that Meeting, and I think I may say it was a
time of renewed favour, many Minds were
tendered, and the difficulties treated on in suc[h]
a Manner; that they appeared to be removed
to general satisfaction, and the work agreed
to be prosecuted, and the time fixed for go-
ing on with it. We felt well satisfyed we had
given up to attend, and friends expressed
great satisfaction with our being there,
& that they thought our Coming was Pro-
-vidential. They have purchased 10 Acre[s]
of Land of Samuel Taylor, part of which is
cleared, and the house is raised and nearly
shingled in, it is built of snug, round pine
Logs, about 20 by 22 feet square, -- I was muc[h]
pleased to see the faces of those we had laboured
[Page 118] amongst last fall, and found the Committee
had left a sweet savour behind them, it
was the general expectation of friends
in Canada that they would have been
again visited this Summer, but when they were
informed the Committee was not likely
to come, at least before the Yearly Meet-
-ing, it proved no small trial, however
they expressed great satisfaction that we had come
over the River, and that the sight of a Solid
friend did them good, it was some trial
to leave them so soon, as there was a ge-
-neral pressing for us to have stayed long-
-er, and we we had were loaded much love give us in charge with love to carry back
to their friends, particularly to such who
had visited them. We stoped and spent a
little time at Samuel Taylors, he has a re-
-ligious goodlooking Wife, then went to his
Father John Taylors and paid a short visit; and stoped & drank Tea
at Joshua Gilhams, then went to James
Crawfords to Lodge, 22 miles today
13 A fine Morning, set of before sunrise, abou
about 100 Pearches above our Lodgings on
[Page 119] an eminence of perhaps 250 or 300 feet
ellevation, we had a view of Lake Onterio
⟨at⟩ 10 or 12 miles distance, also at 12 or 14
miles distance on a strait line we had
a fair view of the fog or Mist which
arose from the great falls, which it ascended
up like a Cloud, we could while riding
along here very plainly hear the roar-
-ing of the Water, like the Noise of a
Mighty Wind. Went to John Hills
to Breakfast 10 miles, stoped at Ben-
-jamin Hills near by, where we took an Af-
-fectionate farewell of Jeremiah More
and his Wife, we we John Hill bear-
-ing us Company, we went to William
Lundy’s, where we dined, 5m then
passing by the falls 2 ½ miles we rode up
the River 12 miles, then turned to our
right 8 miles to Asa Schoolies where we
Lodged. 40 miles today
14 Having got our linen linen &c. Washed &
being ready to leave Canada, I feel easy
to make one general note of the face of the
Country, Timber &c. As far as I have been
[Page 120] through it, in the general it is a level
Country, while in a state of Woods, much
of it is Wet, with a black mud on the
top and a stiff Clay under, which
Clay prevents the Water from soaking
down, when cleared in a dry time
this Clay land beakes bakes very hard &
is difficult tilling, tho in other places the soil it
is a loamy soil. The land in general is
of a good quality and a fine grass land,
good springs of water are scarce, as are
lively runing Streams: and the Waters
fail much in dry Weather. In places
there are a plenty of a coarse flinty
Limestone, but in the general few stones
are to be seen, Scarcely a spot to be met
with, except where it is cleaned, but what
is very heavy, Timbered Land. I do
not recollect of ever passing through a
Country that has so large a proportion
of clean, straight, beautiful White lakes
as a considerable part of this has; there
are also a Considerable quantity of
[Page 121] White and Black Ash, Poplar, Chesnut, Elm,
Shellbark Hiccory, Bass Wood or Lyn, Sugar
Maple, Beech, White Pine &c. When the roads
are first opened and used they are mostly
muddy, in places very deep, but after they
have been used 8 or 10 years and the Roots
rotten and gone, they get pretty good, tho
at present there are amany deep places.
as far as I can learn their Summers are plea-
-sant tho nearly, in the daytime, as warm
as our own are, but the evenings and
nights mostly cool, so that a blanket & Cover-
-lit are not often unpleasant sleeping
under, -- there Winters are steady and more
Snow lies on the ground than in our parts, but
in convesation with some who moved out of
these parts the Jersyes and Pennsylvania, they were of the Mind we have
a many days here, as cold as any they have there,
but we have more warm ones, their Win-
-ters mostly set in towards the middle of the
12th Mo, and in the forepart of winter they
have frequent snows, until the ground
becomes 18, 20, or 24 Inches deep, but seldom
more, which snow continues without much additi-
-on until the Middle of the third Month, which
[Page 122] which is their pleasantest time for traveling in
the whole Year, they do their Carting and
traveling much with Sleds, the roads be-
-come smooth and good, there are no swamps
or mud in the way, neither is the snow
often softened with rain in the Winter,
some seasons they have had very little or no
frost in the Ground; and as far as they have
tryed Cover, they say it does answers very well, not
being hurt in the winter, with frost.
About 9 O Clock this morning we took leave
of our kind, and Valued friends Asa Schooly
and Wife, with their children, hav-
-ing their, and many friends, hearty
Wishes for our safe return, stoped at
Daniel Pounds, a little while, then tak-
-ing our leave of them, and set of down
the Lake for Buffaloe, & arrived at the fer-
-ry about 12 where we found the Chief fer-
-ryman, so in Liquor as not to be fit to
take any Care, but a trusty Old man who
sometimes Assisted agreed to take us over,
the Wind was pretty high, and the River
ran swift, he concluded to lash two boats
together to keep the one our horse was were
[Page 123] in Studier, which was very acceptable to
us, having found when we Crossed before were going
over, that it was a dangerous ferry, and
rocking boat; but now on our return
we went over very steady, tho the Current beat
us down the River ¾ of a Mile, shortly
after we had got on Shore, and mounted, we
saw a man at a great distance towards
Buffaloe, coming riding towards us, whom
we presently knew to be our Indian John
who was coming to meet look for us, he appeared
much pleased to see meet us, as we did to see him,
and to find that our Mare was safe. ----
We got to Buffoloe about 2 OClock and
tho a Day later than we agreed to meet
Cornplanter here, yet neither he nor any of
his company were come, -- about Sunset
his Son Henry, and another Indian arrived
and informed us that Cornplanter, and
10 or 12 more were on there way, and would
be here by 10 OClock tomorrow, 15 miles
15 About 12 OClock Cornplanter and his
company arrived at the Opposite side of Buf-
-faloe, we walked down to the River to recieve
them, when the Landed came across, they appeared pleased
[Page 124] to see us, Cornplanter enquiring after our
health since we left him, he gave us
a letter from our friends dated 5 days
after we came away, informing they
were well in health, and enjoyed a
peaceful Mind, that they had got their
Corn planted, and were preparing ground
for Popatoes, that there had been much
rain since we left them, and that the
gnats and Muschetoes were more trou-
blesome than heretofore.
Cornplanter having got some information that
we were a little uneasy about staying
as none of Robert Morris's Commissi-
-oners were arrived, he this Afternoon
⟨he⟩ took an Oppertunity with us, Observing
that he expected by this time we had seen
enough of the Wilderness to form know, that were
people were to be collected from diffi-
-rent parts to do publick business, it
required time, and he hoped if Cap-
-tain Chapin should not arrive this evening to night,
[Page 125] we would try to make ourselves as hap-
-py as we could, and stay a few days long
-er, for he had a great desire we should
be with them at the Council, and see
that all things were settled fairly, then we
would be able to inform our friends at home
and if they were not settled fairly then we
could also inform our friends. It brought
a close exercise over our Minds to know what
was best to do, a number of the Indians
were collected, yet it looked likely it was
would be some time before all parties
would get together, as none of the White
people immeadeately concerned were
come. We let him know we would have
been glad to have attended the Council, but
it was now drawing towards the latter end
of the Week, and that the White people did
not do business on first day, that it was
not very likely that Captain Chapin &c
would not leave Canandarque before
2nd day Morning, and that it would be a
number of days before the Council
would meet, however we were willing
[Page 126] Closely to consider the subject it this Evening
16 Having attended to Cornplanters re-
-quest, of last evening, I felt my Mind
this Morning easy to move homewards, but
upon mentioning it to my Companion
he said he did not witness that clear-
-ness to set out he wished to experience
yet condescended if I thought best of
letting the Chief know, that upon
weighing his request in the best man-
-ner we could, We felt easy to move
homewards this morning; this infor-
-mation was given him by walking
down to his encampment, he with a
number of others pretty soon came up to
our lodgings, and let us know, he was
sorry we could not make our Minds easy
to have stayed a few days longer, no ways
doubting but Captain Chapin and others concerned
would be here to day; but perhaps
as we had been a considerable time fr
from home, and living was expensive,
we might be much run out of the means
[Page 127] that enabled us to stay, which made
us so anxious to return. I informed
him, when I left home, I expected to have
returned in about 40 days, that it was now
near 50 days, and if we went by Oneida
to see the Indians there, which we proposed,
it would take near 30 days more before we
got could get home, that our Circumstances as
to money was not in the way, for we had
plenty. he said he had left home on pub-
-lic Business, expecting to have return-
-ed in 50 or 60 days, and it had taken him
near a Year before he had got back, and
that he had found it his duty to sacrafice
privet conveniency to public good;
and he would have us do so too:
we let him know, the business we came
about appeared to be agreeable settled
to both their and our Minds, that this o-
-ther business, was something we knew
nothing of about untill since among
them, that we would have been will-
-ing to have set with them in Coun-
-cil, tho did not know we could be of
any use service to them, and that the
[Page 128] business between him and Captain Cha-
-pin relating to a Mill, we thought
when he and the Captain conferred to
-gather on the Subject, we might be ful-
-ly informed of their result by letter.
he then informed us he was become per-
-fectly reconciled to our going, and as
the Council was expected every
day to meet, he could not go with us
to Canandargue, as he had proposed,
but that John, who had hitherto been
with us, would go through to the Che-
-nesee River, and that he wished the
good Spirit who had hitherto pre-
-served us, would safely keep us on our
Journey, until we arrived at our own
homes, he further desired we would
make ourselves, perfectly easy about
our Young Men, who were left a-
mong his People, for he would take
the necessary care of them, and that they
and that would be entirely safe.
[Page 129]
We now took An affectionate farewell of
the Chief, and the Indians present, who
parted with us with much respect; and
I can truly say, the longer I have been
among that People, the more near and
united they have felt to me, and that
now on parting, the felt like bretheren
like with whom I have had been intamate
-ly acquainted, and for whose wellfare
I feel ardant Wishes. ----
About 8 O Clock we left Buffaloe, hav-
-ing a fine day to enter the Wilderness,
and there having been about a Week
of dry weather, the road was this day
pretty good, so that with industry we
traveled by computation 45 miles.
Much of this days ride was through a country
land of very little or no thinly timbered, wich was
grown over with plenty of pretty good grass,
so that I thought thousands of Cattle might
have fattened upon it, if it was not for a
certain species of large flies, and Musche-
-toes, we stoped twice to let our horses eat
[Page 130] grass, but they were so Worried with these
Animals, that the did little but run about
until we got bushes and kept them of.
If we stoped our horses one Minute in
some places in the Woods, the Musche-
-toes would be on them in such swarms
as almost to hide their natural Colour,
and none but those who have experienced
it the trial can rightly form an Idea, how trou-
blesome the were to the Rider, I cou-
-vered my head, neck, and most of my
face with my Silk handkerchief, laped
my Pocket do: around one of my hands
and with all the other defence I could
make was much bit and Swelled with
them, -- When Night came an we got
no relief, we took up our quarters, a-
-bout Sunset, beside a small stream
of good Water, under the Boughs of an
Oak, and erected fires, in diffirent
places around us in order to smoke
them of, but with all our defence we
were worried the whole night throug[h]
[Page 131] So that we slept but little, our horses,
as may readily be supposed, fared no
better, they would away out to eating,
and then in a little time return trot-
-ting back to the fire, and it was with with
much difficulty we got them sad-
-dled in the Morning. 45 miles
17 Set of early this Morning, being willing
to leave Muschetoe Camp, the road not
so good as Yesterday, having a large
number, of deep Swamps, and about 20 miles of a thick
woods to pass through, wherein we found no diminution
of the Muschetoes, but about noon we ar-
-rived in at the plains within 8 miles of
the Chenesee River, where our horses
could eat grass without much molestati-
-on having left the big flys and the o-
-ther tormenting insects chiefly behind us.
We crosed the River about 4, on the flats
of which there was a great burden of natu-
-ral grass, and about the Road Timothy &
Clover, the seed having droped from horses
as the traveled along, I lodged at Pearsons
4½ Miles on this side the River, having left
[Page 132] my Companion a few miles behind on
special business. 35 miles.
The Richness of the Soil between Buf-
-foloe and the Chenesee River has is no
way lessoned in my view by riding
through it at this time, but the first
Settlers will meet with a great trial
in the Summer Season from the In
-sects I have mentioned, but when the
Country becomes Settled, the low places
Cleared, and dry, that affliction will
I believe cease, for I saw very little stag-
-nated Water, -- much of this Country
is scarce of Springs, or streams of
Water, and what there is very much
fails in dry Seasons, so that its va-
-luableness will be greatly lessened
thereby.
18th. About noon John Peirce arrived at
my Quarters, he having since I left him
had a full interview with Captain
Chapin, who is the superintendant of
the Indians for the united States, John
gave him a full information with of what
[Page 133] we had been doing at Cornplanters set-
-tlement, and an account of the Young
Men we had left there, the Captain ex-
pressed great satisfaction with our pro-
ceedings, and thought there was encouragement
to extend labour towards that people, for
he had been sometime past through the
Oneida settlement and he apprehended he
saw considerable improvement since o
friends extended care there.
About 2 O Clock we sat of towards Canan-
-darque, and for 9 or 10 miles we passed through
a thick settled, highly improved Country,
for considering the settlement to be was no more than 10 years
old, which to me was very animating,
having for 300 miles past been mostly in
the Wilderness where improvments were
not to be seen, here we had beautiful Timo-
-thy, and Clover fields almost Constantly
in view, with a good appearance of wheat
Indian Corn, flax, Oates &c. these we shewed
to our Indian guide, he alighted to examine
the heads of Wheat, we shewed him the flax that
that Shirts &c. were made of, with which he
appeared pleased, we saw four Men howing corn
these we pointed to, telling him they were not
[Page 134] Squas, or Women, and that was the way
the White People did their Work, he
knew our meaning, which he expressed
by a lively smile. We now parted with
him, having traveled together 170 miles
he going on for Canandarque, and
⟨we⟩ for Mud Creek, he was the same Indian
Chief who lives near by to where our Young
are Settled, whom Cornplanter said, as
heretofore noted, was a sober Man, like
ourselves, he would drink no Whiskey, we
have had some oppertunity of proving
this Assertion, being several days
with him at the Tavern, at Buffoloe
were the Indians were drinking Spirits
and I did not see him meddle with any it.
We now left the State road, turning to
our left through a Country but little in-
-habitted, an open Woods, and thin land
until within 2 miles of Mud Creek, here
was heavy timber and good land, we
lodged at Jacob Smiths who has a Mill
and Sawmill on Said Creek on a fine
natural fall. 20 miles to day.
[Page 135]
19th. Went to Nathan Cornstalks 6 miles
through good land, heavily Timber’d
part of which was very fine White Oaks,
rested here untill after dinner, then
went to Abraham Lapham’s, 2 miles,
where I left my companion, and went
2 miles to Caleb Macumber’s, who
with his Wife are valuable young
friends, lately settled in these parts,
in the evening, they went with me
1½ miles to there fathers, Jeremiah –
Smiths, where we lodged, 11 miles
20th Caleb and his Wife went with me to Abra-
-ham Lapham’s, this Morning, where we
stayed until after dinner, being among
kind, valuable friends, and our hor-
-ses fareing very well, render’d it an agree-
-able time. I having in company with the Com-
-mittee that went to Canada last fall, which [?] visit friends
here in there families, and held several Meet-
-ings amongst them, I felt great satisfaction
in being once more amongst them, and the
company of a Friend to those Remotely situated
is very Joyous more specially when such love
the Truth and are concerned to support the
[Page 136] profession they are makeing, which I
trust is in a good degree the situation
of a few friends here, they having been
strengthd since we were here last fall
to hold Meetings twice a Week; often m
more than 30 meeting on the fist day, and
half that number on a Week day, attending
About one O Clock we parted with our
kind friends here and set of for Oneida
Caleb Macumber putting us on our way
9 miles throug a country pretty thick set-
-tled, particularly on Mud Creek down which
⟨the⟩ waters of which we went, down for several miles after parting with him
we went for 6 or more miles, we went through good
Land, unimproved to the outlet of Ca-
nandarque lake a smart stream, which we crossed here
was one or two more settlements, thence to
Flint Creek 4 miles through as good
Land to appearance as any we have rod[e]
through over with plenty of fine limestone
all unimproved, here was a sawmill,
that did a great deal of Business
on a said large stream, which stream we Crossed the Creek
on a bridge, thence 3 miles to one
Woodhulls a privet house, tho some
[Page 137] times takes in tavelers, he had a
large quantify of meadow, of the best
of Grass and stoutly grown, tho our horses
fare was poor, the house stands near
the said Outlet of the Lake, Flint having
Joined it the stream a little a piece up. 24 miles.
21st. Set of early this morning, passed through
about 13 miles, of a light soil, thinly timber-
-ed, some of which was pitch pine, being the
first we have seen for several hundred
miles past, thence 8 or 9 miles through
a very rich beautiful limeston country all
thick Woods, we have now entred what
is called the Mililary Lands in Onanda-
-ga County, and I do not recollect of ever
seeing 8 miles of Land more beautifull
both for situation, and quality, and tim-
-ber than this, - As I rode over it I anticipated contem-
-plated the time, when this land will be
crouded with Wealthy Farmers, abound-
-ing with large stocks of Cattle &c. Vieing each
other with their fields of Wheat, Corn, Grass &c
⟨&⟩ regaleing themselves around their Tables
richly loaded with provision. --- Here we
arrived at the outlet of Seneca Lake, a stream
[Page 138] perhaps at as large as three of Brandywine, when
we first came on the River it looked very deep
and glided along with an easy current,
but in a little time we came to a rapid a
Mile in length, on which are erected
an Elegant Merchant Mill, and a
Sawmill that appeared to do a great
deal of Business, the stand appeared
to me is very valuable, as the Country[?]
round is fertile, and suitable for
raising Wheat, salt and goods of va-
-rious kinds are boated up this River
to a little below the Mill, then Cart-
-ed above the rapids, and from thence
taken by boat up into the Seneca Lake, which is
40 miles in length and opens into
a very fine Country, we were informed
that this stream seldom rises more than
Six Inches with any fresh, the Lake
forming a large bason which contains
the freshes, and is which is let out gra-
-dually, -- thence to Cyuga Lake three
miles, here we fed our horses and cooked
our own Breakfast, we then crossed sd. La[ke]
[Page 139] in a Boat, a little above its outlet, it be-
-ing one mile across wide, and 13 or 14 feet deep
we were informed the Lake was 45 miles
long, and in places four Miles Wide, we now
entred a pretty thick settled Country, consi-
-derably improved, the Land still very good
with plenty of Limestone, and in eight miles
crossed a large lively stream which [?]
is formed being was the outlet of Owasco Lake, which
was Lake is 12 miles long and one broad; about 1 ½
miles miles on this side we fed at one Good-
-riches, thence to Carpenters 10½ miles over
a very fine Country pretty well watered
which has not been the case which has not been the case for until latterly
many miles back which Country was considerably settled, few of
the improvments older than four years,
I have been much delighted in the last 15
miles ride, in beholding the beautiful and
well grown fields of Wheat, Clover and Ti-
-mothy mixed, and lots of Corn, -- I thought
one half of the Cleared Land was in with grass
and that many farmers would cut from
20 to 30 Tons of Hay. For thirty miles back
I think it is without exception the best body
of land I have seen since we left home. We
got a five O Clock dinner at Carpenters
[Page 140] and then rode 6 miles to Lindseys on 9
Mile Creek a pretty large stream, being
the outlet of the Shaneatetes lake, our
last stage mostly woods, here we Lodged
cutting Clover and Timothy grass for our horses with a sickle
he having no pasture. The grass is so stout, I thought it would have [?] produce near three tons of hay to the Ac[?]
The common practice of raising Corn,
wheat &c for many Miles past, is to clear a piece
Land, by cutting down nearly all
the timber which they heap and burn
on the Spot, and when made clean, they
Harrow the ground several times over,
then they plant, and tend the Corn with
the Hoe never putting a plough in the
ground, when the Corn comes of, in the
fall, they again harrow the ground several
times, and then sow it with wheat and
Timothy, and often times some Clover seed, and when the Wheat comes
of, mow it for several years, by that time
many of the roots get are rotten, they then
Plough and farm it as suits best.
49 miles
22nd.: Went 13 miles to breakfast the first
7 good limestone land, unsettled, being
lately purchased of the Onadaga Indians,
[Page 141] thence a few settlements: to Onadaga Creek,
3 miles in an uncommon Valley surround-
-ed with high hills, in said Valley a num-
-ber of good improvements,
From Lake Erie to this place a level Coun-
-try, not a Mountain in the Whole way, nor
very few hills that a Waggon need lock down,
but now for about 17 miles forward the Land is con-
-siderably hilly, and in places stony, for the
first 9 or 10 miles pretty thick settled, with
good improvements, from thence to Cana-
-soraga a smart water that runs into Onei-
-da Lake, about five miles mostly Woods,
as here we fed our horses, and rested seve-
-ral hours the day being very Warm, as
we descended a long hill down to this
place we killed a Rattle Snake about
four feet long, as thick in the Middle as
as a good pitchfork handle, but was
much smaller towards its head; it was
of a lively dark brown, conveying a mixed
colour to the Eye, beautiful to appearance,
it lay still in the road, neither offered to
fight, or run. ---- In the coarse of this
days ride, we passed within a few miles to
[Page 142] the right of the Onadaga Salt Works
a place where there are a large number
of Salt Springs, in a Marshy, Boggy
bottom, we were informed 500 men are at
times employed at these works, and that
Salt may be had there for 62 cents Per
Bushel, and that all the Northern and
Western Country, and much of upper Cana-
-da is pretty much Supplyed therefrom.
from From this Stage to the Oneida Vil-
-lage 12 miles, in about one mile we
passed by a well improved farm, with
a good house, Barn, and other building[s]
and a large proportion of good Timo-
-thy Meadow belonging to, and in the
possession of an Idian Indian, he keeps
Tavern, has his Sign hanging up out as
common at Public houses from thence to the Village
mostly Woods, the few settlement there were,
was, one or two excepted, was put up this
Spring, being small, rough, and very open,
about 6 in the Evening, we arrived at our
friends settlement, found them all well, &
very glad to see us. William Gregory, his
[Page 143] Wife and Hannah Jackson, having got here
about three weeks ago, after a passage of 15 days.
William's Chief view in coming, was, to set
set up the Smith trade, and to instruct
some of the Indian Lads in that art, and
Hannah’s was to open a School, and besides
teaching Literature, to instruct the girls
in knitting, sewing, &c. neither of them
have yet opened their occupations, in part
occationed by some unsettlement or unea-
-siness in the Indians Minds, in regard
to the Sale of some of their lands, and the
runing of their lines, Commissioners hav-
-ing been busy engaged in the business since the
arrival of our friends.
23 We went on foot this Morning, Jacob Taylor
bearing us Company, to see the Tuscorora &
Stockbridge Indians, they Lay South from this
place up the Oneida Creek, the Tuscorora’s
two miles of, and the Stockbridge nation
four, the land is good, and with a considerable
bottom of it up the Creek, on which the
Tuscororas are Scatteringly settled, most of
them having some enclosures of wheat,
[Page 144] Corn, Mowing ground &c. with a con-
-siderable number of Cattle, and some hor-
-ses, Sheep, and Swine, which made a
pretty Clever appearance: but on arriv-
-ing at the Stockbridge Settlement, the
prospect of their improvement was
more delightful, the have a large
Street between two and three miles in
length, which Ascends up the middle of a valley
one mile or more in Wi[?]dth, on each
side of this street their houses are erect-
-ed 20 or 30 pearches from each other, the
Land on this Street is mostly cleared, and
fenced off in small Lots, which lots were in
with Wheat, Corn, Grass for Mowing, or
for pasture: It is about nine years
since they settled here in the Woods,
their first houses are mostly small, and
poor, some of them have latterly put up
pretty good houses, and others are pre-
paring for it. The have pretty good
Gardens near their doors, and consi-
-derable Stock, of horses, and Oxen, Cows, and
Swine, with some Sheep. On the East
[Page 145] near enough to supply themselves with
water runs the Oneida Creek, and on the
West in the Same Valley a small stream,
that so that they are well supplyed with
Water, and towards the South end
of their Village, they have a Grist Mill,
and a Sawmill, their Grist mill does
considerable work for the White People,
and their was a large quantity of logs
and Boards, at the Sawmill. We called
to see most of the families of note amo
mongst them, also a School kept by an Indian a religious Indian Man with whom I was much
pleased, more particularily with the
Women, many of the Women whom, were Solid,
Sensible, and engaging. there houses
were clean with Wooden floors and Glass
Windows, themselves and Children mostly
clean, and neat, and the Men and Boys
were hoeing corn &c. I thought there was
as much diffirence between Cornplan-
-ters people, and this nation; as between
these People, and the better livers among
the White People. We had a favoured
oppertunity with a number of the most
[Page 146] respectable Characters of both their
Men and Women, at the close of which,
a Chief on the behalf of the Men pre-
-sent made a pretty lengthy Speech, in
Substance; expressing their thankful-
-ness to the good Spirit who had put
it into our hearts to remember
them when at a great distance, and
had preserved us in our way thither;
that they felt themselves much Streng-
-thened by our good Words, that they
were sensible they had done that which
was not right, yet hoped by the help
of the good Spirit they would do better for
the future, and they Wished the Qua-
-kers, would continue to remember
them, for they had found them to be
true Men, and that the realy had
the poor Indians good at Heart, and
wished that the good Spirit would safely pre-
-serve us on our way home to our fa-
milies and friends. Then after a short
pause, a Woman on behalf of the Wo-
[Page 147] men present delivered a speach much
to the foregoing import, tho we thought it
more weighty, and nervious, we then re-
-turn’d to Captain Hendricks’s where
we lodged, in a good Clean bed.
24th Returned this Morning to our friends at
Oneida, and it being the first day of the week
we sat with them in their Meeting.
25th Had a Council with the Oneida’s this
afternoon, on Business that our friends here
had been endeavouring to get them together
about for several Weeks past, but were
not able to accomplish it until we came,
we made some fresh proposals to them con-
-cerning some of their young men coming to
work on the farm with our friends, they
having never complyed with the proposals
that were made, when the friends first were
there, as the consideration therein mentioned
they were to receive for their labour, they
apprehended at too great a difference, it be-
-ing such a share of what was raised. There
were also some proposials concerning one
or two of their Young Men coming to learn
[Page 148] the Smith trade, all which they said
they would take under consideration and
let us know tomorrow, then they were clos[e]
-ly expostulated with, concerning some Jea-
-louses they had entertained, occationed by
some whisperings of evel Minded White
People, who told them the Quakers had
some deep rooted design, to make get pos-
-session of their Lands, for they certainly
would not have been at the great expence
they have, if they did not expect some
temporal advantage therefrom; they
acknowledged they had given too much place
in their Minds to such Whisperings, and
that it had made them feel, to use there
own expressions, very ugly, we let them
know that we would not have their Land
if they would give it to us, and that it was
very unkind in them to have given place
to such surmisings without they had, had
some ground for it them, they acknow-
-ledged they had found us to be true Men,
that we Spoke the same words to them
now, we Spoke two too them two years ago
[Page 149] and that they would Shut their Ears to all
such Whisperings in future. Then said, they
had been trying to improve in farming, and
if they did not come forward as fast, and as
well as we desired the Quakers desired,
they must not get discouraged, but conti-
-nue there care, and Assistance towards them.
Upon enquiring of our young Men here, they
informed us there was some improvment a-
-mong the Oneida’s since they came, tho
not such as they wished to have seen, they
Plough more, and fence more, they sow more
Wheat, and have more lots of Meadow. They
are computed young and old to amount to at
about 600, and are scattered 10 or more miles
distant, tho their largest number is with-
-in two miles of this place. They have a
large enclosure here of perhaps 200 Acres,
wherein the keep their horses, of which they
have more than necessary, their Cows, and
Swine; and in said enclosure are many of
their Horses, and they plant their Corn, sow
their Wheat and Oates, and have their mea-
-dow lots without, but this mode of farm-
-ing, it looks likely they will have to change
before long, for the have sold their Lands,
[Page 150] particularly where the State road goe[s]
within 2 or 3 miles of this place, and the
White People are settleing on it fast,
and they haveing put up several Houses both to the East, and West
of the Castle have been put up this Spring
and we saw a number Cattle in the Woods
within two Miles of their Corn &c.
There are several good houses in the
Castle, with Glass Windows and large Piazza
or Portico’s before the door, one of the
Chief’s Houses is painted red, and looks
Showy, -- The main Road from Albany to
the Western Country goes through their
enclosure, there being a gate hung on
each side, many travellers stop and
Stay all night at the Red house, it is
called a Tavern. -- Their houses are ge-
nerally floored, with Chimneys at one end
26th Part of this afternoon was spent in
Settleing with the Stockbridge Indians
concerning the Mill friends built them
and in the evening we had a Council
with the Oneida’s, in order for them
to give us an Answer to the proposals
we made them Yesterday, they informed
[Page 151] us they had found one lad or Young Man, willing
to come and join in, on the farm, and one
to learn the smith trade, and the Chiefs
engaged to use their endeavours to get
more, they also agreed immeadiately to
Cover a shop, and burn some Coals, whic[h]
shop they accordingly covered next Mornin[g]
and went immeadiately to getting wood
home for Coal, and the oppertinity end-
-ed to general satisfaction. --- And It now
looks likely we may set of homewards tomorro[w]
which feels very pleasant. My Mind has for
the most part, has been easy about my
family and concerns at home, ever since
I left them, but now our business appear-
-ing to be gone through, the draught hom[e]
feels strong: and it has been some exercise
to our Minds to fix on the best rout to
take, down the Mohocks River, by Al-
-bany, and through the Jerseys, is the best
Road, the Oldest settled Country, and likel[y]
to be have the best accomodations, but down
the Waters of the Susquehanna, near 100
miles neigher.
[Page 152]
27th Upon further Consideration we
felt most easy to return home down
the Mohocks River, And about one OClock
⟨we⟩ took an affectionate farewell of our frds,
having before taken leave of the Indians,
and set off, and passed through a thick
Woods much of it hemlock, for 7 or
8 miles, passed by wherein there were a few settlements, lately
erected, but as we passed went on, improvment[s]
became more plenty, so that in a few miles
we got into a thick settled Country, with
Large frame houses many of which were
painted; and good frame Barns, such as
would have been a Credit to an Old settled
Country, with fields loaded with Clover and
Timothy for Mowing, with some fields of Wheat,
and a very good appearance of Corn, and other Spring Crop[s]
in 17 miles we came to new Hartford, a
smart Town, with containing a number of good hou-
-ses, among which, was a large place of Wor-
-ship, then to the River of Fort Schuylar
4 Miles, where we passed through another
Town as large as Hartford, and the build-
-ings good. here we crossed the River,
which I thought was not much larger than
[Page 153] Brandywine, we then went down the
North side of said River through a Rich Coun-
-try thick settled to Bratons 3 miles where we
took up our quarters, where we got good ac-
-comodations both for ourselves and horses.
Farmers busy Mowing and making hay today, the first
we have seen, Grass so stout, scarcely room
on the ground to dry it 24 miles
Seventh day last about 4 Oclock in the
afternoon while we were at Stockbridge a
Violent hail storm passed through the coun-
-try a little to the North of us, its direction was
nearly East and its extenton 20 or more
miles, and from one to two in breadth,
as we returned to Oneida next Morning
We beheld its destructive effects, on the
corn, Oates, &c; and this day for more
than five miles, it was affecting to see
the destruction it made: whole fields
of wheat were entirely cut off, so that
we could not see one head standing, corn,
Flax, and Oates fared but little better, Peas
in the Gardens and fields, Acres being
Sown here, were entirely cut off, destroy
-ed, large fields of Timothy were so bro-
[Page 154] broken down that they smelled like
fresh hay, there being many Pokebushes
along the Road, they which were knocked all
to pices, the stalks which were as thick
as rake handles were broke, in short
all vegetation where the storm reched
suffered much; the fences, stumps, &
Old logs were much marked: the Win-
-dows of a number of houses were very
much destroyed, one place of Worshi[p]
we understood had more than 300
lights broke.
28th. A fine Morning, and a pleasant day
for traveling: about 8 or 9 miles of a fine
Country down the River, the poorly farmed
buildings not near so good as further back,
thence 5 miles to Adridges where we got
our Breakfasts, through land equally
as good, and much better farmed, with
some large buildings; both spring and
Winter Wheat good, also the Corn; and fine
meadows loaded with the best of Grass; the
River at times close on our right, which
flowed along with a gentle Current, appeard
pretty deep, tho not much wider than Bar[n]
[Page 155] dywine, this was through what is called the
German flatts. We passed through the County
Town of Hackamack, and so over the River
on a Bridge to the southside one mile be-
-fore we fed. thence 14 miles to Teevendurfs
over high, dry, Stony Land, Buildings mostly
poor, as was allso the grass and other Crops;
we now left the River at some distance to our left.
About three miles back we went by a
pretty elegant House, now occupied by
the prespeterians , it was built by William
Johnson before the French and Indian War
as a place of Worship for the Indians.
In about one Mile from after we left Teevendurff’s
having passed through a fine flat, we rode
the River which had increased much in
weadth Width, the flat still Continuing,
in one mile we left it, and passed over 6 or
7 miles of a Stony, rough, poor Country,
except some bottoms on the River, the build-
-ings also poor, then 7 or more miles, fine
bottoms loaded with grass, and various
sorts of grain; thicksettled near the River
with many good Buildings, more particu-
-larly on the south side. the latter part
[Page 156] ⟨part⟩ of this stage the Mountains, or high roc[ky]
Hills crouded near to the River, so that
inplaces there was scarcely room for a
Road. Lodged at Connolly’s 17m 41 miles
Peas are very commonly swon in this
Northern Country, from Canada to this place
3, 4 or more Acres in a lot; they are used to
feed Horses, fatten swine, &c, the Bottoms
on the Mohocks, contain a large quantity
of them. --- Spring Crops of all sorts on
this River and for a many miles further Wes[t]
I have observed to be very much hurt with
a Yellow Blossomed Weed, it has the appear-
-ance of Mustard tho much smaller, it grows
so thick in places, that the Oates, Peas, spring
Wheat &c: are entirely hid.
29th. A pleasant ride 2 or more Miles down
a rich bottom all under Culture. the scar-
-city of Railtimber has induced many far-
-mers on this River to hang gates at certain
places instead of fencing each side of the
road, so that Corn, Wheat, Peas &c comes close
up to the road side, which causes a delight-
-ful appearance where Croops are good. fro[m]
thence to Degraph’s 17½ miles this stage; the
[Page 157] Land mostly stony, some of it very rough,
and but little bottom land on the river, the
Buildings mean, and Farming poor. ----
I have often admired since we came on
this River to see such large heaps of Ashes
remaining untucked, where there has
been for Years past Pot-Ash Manufacture
carried on, they convey to the traveler,
that the people have no Idea, the land
would be benefitted by spreding them over
it, or otherwise, that they are to lazy to do it.
A few miles back some Men were hoeing
very poor Corn in a field, where I had no
doubt there were 3; or 400 Loads of Ashes
in a heap untuched, I called aloud to
to them to know why they did not
spread the heap of Ashes over the field
and so have good corn, and not be hoe-
-ing such poor stuff as that was; they stod like
Men amazed, made no reply, and we passed
on, -- And a few miles further on we saw
a large pottash Works close on the River
so that when the Ashes were thrown out of the
Tubs they went into the River Water, and were drive[n]
of with freshes
[Page 158] thence to Shenectady 13½ miles, the
land thin and stony, with but little
bottom land on the River. We had the
water often in view, and tho we have
seen but few streams of Consequence
that which o run into the River since we left
Fort Scuylar, yet it has increased very
much in Width. Where we lodged last
night, our Landlord said it was but
60 Yards Wide, in many places since
I supposed it to be from 100 to 150, and
at Schenectady where we ferryed it, we
were informed it was 60 pearches wide.
The town made a pretty appear-
-ance from the Opposite Shore; it is si-
-tuated close on the south side of the
River, appeared to be a considera-
-ble place, with many good buildings
we did not stop in the town it, desireing to
⟨go⟩ where we could get grass for our horses
⟨&⟩ understanding there were plenty of
Taverns on towards Albany, we pro-
-ceeded forwardward, but we found the
country was to poor to to produce good
[Page 159] grass, for it was a perfect sand bed, ex-
-cept some swamps, nearly all the way to
Albany, and thinly timbered with Pitch
Pine, and as thinly Inhabitted, being
but 10 or 12 houses for 15 miles. and each of them a Tavern When Evening
came we were hard put to for good Quar-
-ters, within 1½ miles of Albany we found at the Wi-
-dow Scotts, pretty good pasture, but
the House and things in it looked very
discouraging, however we fared found it a
place of better quarters than we expected.
This has been a trying days ride, the Road
were was very dusty, and the Wind with us, so
that we were much smothered. 45 miles
30 In 1½ Miles we arrived at Albany, the
Town stands on the West Side of the North
River, under a hill, so that we had but
little prospect of it until we we came close by,
we did not stop in the Town, riding
in at the West side, and out at the
South end; Shortly after we left the
City we passed by two beautiful country
seats on Commanding Eminances to our
[Page 160] Right, the fruit trees around them, the de-
-scending green meadows before their doors
and the River which was in full view, rend-
-red them desirable their situation very en-
-chanting. We now pursued our Coarse down
the River having it at times in view, to
Quemanstown 15 miles, where we got a
good Breakfast, a few miles on this side Al-
-bany, the land was a Stony Gravel, with
a hard Clay; then sandy; the Whole of
the way poor; thinly settled; and buildings
mean; mostly a pitchpine Timber, ---
Thence to Catskill 18 miles; the first
3 or 4 rough and stony; then 8 or 10 miles
through an Old Settled Country; pretty
level fields; without pasture, meadows very light, Wheat,
Rye, Cheat, and some Cackle, mixed toga-
-ther made their Winter Crop; the land
a stiff Clay, in dry Weather it bakes very
hard; the Remainder of this stage full of
Limestone ridges, and so stony as not to be
arable Arable Catskill a large stream with a
very Rocky bottom; from thence to Pear-
-sons a Dutch Tavern where we lodged 12½
miles. In about two miles we crossed the
Katters-kill on a high Bridge, Just below
which there was a remarkable fall of
[Page 161] 30 or more feet over a huge pile of Rocks,
which damed the Water for miles back, &
formed a very fine Millseat, on which were
erected a Merchant, and Sawmill; from thence
to this place the Land continued very much
broken with high Limestone Ridges runing
in a Southern direction. Much highland
were to be seen in this days ride; we often
had a full view of many miles extent o-
-ver the North River; and on our right
at 10 or miles distant, ran a chain of
high Mountains. The latter part of this
stage the Land better than farther bac[k]
with pretty good buildings, some good
fields of wheat, mostly bearded. 47 miles
1st 7 mo 1 and 1st of the week, We would have been glad
to have reached a friends meeting today, but
found it impractable, therefore thought best
of traveling, tho not without some unplea-
-sant feelings, being in a Presbeterian Coun-
-try. ---- Early this morning we passed
through two considerable red Cedar groves,
on Rocky, poor Land; then through pret-
-ty good land, and thick settled, tho very much
[Page 162] broken with limestone Ridges, in 10
miles we Crossed Esopus Creek a
Smart stream larger than Brandywine
fine bottoms up the Creek to the Town
which is a smart Village containing
a number of good buildings. we pass-
-ed through the skirts of the Town, &
in about 4 miles, of stony, Rough,
Land we got to greenskill, here we
we got our took Breakfast at DeWitts, in
a Rocky country. He has a Merchant
Mill near by, on the most natural dam
and fall I think I ever saw. There
is a ridge of Rocks runs across the kill
on each side of Which is high firm land.
one end of the Mill head which conveys the
water on the Wheels, rests on these Rocks,
from which to the opposite Shore is but ten
feet; the Miller told me that by putting
an eighteen Inch board, on the top
of about 18 Inches already raised, on
the ridge of Rocks, he could pen wa-
-ter enough, if it met with no supply,
[Page 163] to keep the Mill a going for three days, there
being such a large, swampy, low piece of
ground above this natural dam. Thence
through a Rough Country, the good roads,
in about 18 miles we arrived at Samuel Baldwin[‘s]
in 4 or more miles of the first part of this
stage we Crossed the Rosendell, a lively
stream, nearly as large as Esopus, the
Bridge over it was near fifty Yards long
and twenty feet from the Water, yet the
stream rose so high a few months ago as
to lie on the bridge, -- In perhaps four
Miles further we came to the Wallkill,
which was as large as three of the Rosen-
-dall, and into which the Rosendall runs
a few Miles below. We went several miles
up the Wallkill through a fine, level Coun-
-try, and Crossed it in a boat; it was perhaps
60 or 70 Yards wide, and 10 feet deep. There
appeared to be no Current in the River, occa-
-tioned by a Ridge of Rocks that runs across it
it 5 or 6 miles below, over which the Water
falls 20 or more feet. From what I have seen
as well as heard, falls of this kind are very
[Page 164] common on most of the Water in this part
of the Country. --- As we advanced South-
-ward, the Land improved in quality, and
the Wonderful Ridges of Rocks, that were
so very common further back, grew fewer,
yet stones rather Increased; tho most of the
land in the latter part of this stage is
Arable, more especially after the Stones
are drawn of, which in divers places
have been done and put up in stone fen-
-ces. The Plaister of Paris has been latter
-ly introduced into these parts and answers
very well. We arrived at Samuel Bald-
-wins about four Oclock, weary, and glad
glad we were got to a friends house. The
weather latterly has been very warm, and we
having travelled hard from Oneida, both
us and our horses wanted Rest, we conclud-
-ed to lay by here a day or two, in order to get
them Shod, and to help these backs which were
a little sore. -- John Pierce, having at times
⟨for⟩ some weeks past, hinted to me, that he had
some wish before we returned home, to go
over the North River to see the school at
the Nine partners, but since we left Onei-
-da, our draft homewards was such, that we
[Page 165] put it by. But on our arrival here, un-
-derstanding we are were within 28 miles of it sd.
School, and Samuel Baldwin kindly offer-
-ing to let us have fresh horses to go there
and to take good care of our own until
we returned: upon weighing the propos-
-al we felt easy in attempting to go. 36 miles
2nd. Accordingly this morning we went 9 miles
nearly on an East direction to Edward Hal-
-locks near the North River, over a very rough
Stony country; about one Mile before we
got to Edwards, off some high land, we had
a very beautifull and extensive Prospect
for about 20 miles over the North River, &
as far each way, up and down the Water. The
face of the country appearing to descend to-
-wards the River, and being mostly improv-
-ed, the Wheat and Pasture fields, together
with large houses, Barns &c and some sheets
of the River which presented in places, also
the Town of Pocepsey, which was four miles
up the River on its Opposite Shore: made
the Landscape truly delightful. We dined
at Edward Hallocks, but the day prov-
-ing very Warm, and our horses young, not
suitable for traveling such weather, we thought
[Page 166] it would be best not to proceed further,
therefore in the Evening returned to
Samuels. 18 miles
3rd. Got our horses Shod this Morning, and
intended to have set of homewards in
the Afternoon, but there coming up a hea-
-vy Gust of Rain and Hail, we put it by of un
until next Morning.
4th. Set of early this Morning through
a pretty good Country, and fine Roads
to Jacksons, 18 miles, here we fed our hor-
-ses and got a second breakfast. We pass-
-ed by four large places of Worship this
Morning; and a number of good houses
and Barns, the land level and pretty
clear of stones. A Chain of Mountains
were steadily in view on our right, at ten
or miles distant; and we left newburgh,
and New Windsor 8 or 10 miles to our left.
More Swamp Meadow for the last 14 miles
than for 100 before. A large proportion
of the land was sown with wheat, which
was mostly light. Not so much Rye as
further back. Thence throug good land,
thick settled, and a beautiful country to
Goshen, the County Town of Orange County.
[Page 167]
Off a commanding eminence, a few miles
before we got to this Village, we had an
extensive Prospect, to the West, to the
South, and to the East, I expect the Eye
reached 20 miles each way, over a level
looking Country, much improved. In
the neighbourhood of this Village, lies a large
proportion of valuable Meadows, and
shortly after we left the Town I observed all
the fences, both Pot, and Rail, and Worm
fences, were made of nice Ceder Rails,
and upon enquiry I was informed, in what
is called the drowned Lands, there is a
Ceder Swamp of Several thousand Acres,
which supplys the country for several miles
round. A very valuable source. In 6 miles
over land more rough and hilly we got
to Florida a place of several good buildings
where we fed. Water for our horses to drink
at has been very scarce these two last stages.
Thence 12 miles to Doctor Cooes, where
we Lodged, over a hilly, Stony Country,
a great abundance of Limestone the
[Page 168] latter part of this stage. Rye the most
common Winter grain. We are now
in the Jerseys 3 or 4 miles South of the
New York line, having travelled in sd
York State upwards of 500 miles
5th. This has been the worst stage for our
horses that we have met with since we
left Oneida, and not very good for our
-selves. Went to Doctor Beeches 7 miles
to Breakfast. very good. Our last
7 miles was through a rough Country,
a Considerable Mountain close on our
left, and a Valley on our right; most
of the Land very stony. Stone fences
pretty frequent. The farmers have
been very busy for this Week past, in
ploughing and hoeing their Corn, and
in ploughing for buckwheat; a large
Quantity of this Grain, being sown here away in
this Country. A few Crops of good Wheat
are to be seen, but light crops of rye
are more commonly frequend. A Dutch
Plough with one handle which stands near-
-ly upright, with a very short beam an[d]
[Page 169] pan Share, is almost the only plough such, that
is used for 200 miles back; they appear to
work easy both for the horses, and plough
-man, and does their business pretty neat.
Shortly after we left this stage we Cross-
-ed the Wallkill, fifty miles higher up than
where we crossed it firtday last, yet the
Stream was so large, as to have a forge erect-
-ed on it a little above the fording place.
In about 7 miles further we Crossed the
Pawlinskill, which was the first Water
we met with that runs ran into the Delaware,
having gone round all the head branches
of said River, as we did those of Susquehanna, stopped and got our dinner
at Benjamin Schoolies 12 miles who, with his Wife
are examplary friends, thence one mile
to Newtown or Sussex Courthouse a smart
Village, thence to Jacob Lundys, through
a pretty good Country tho very much bro-
-ken with Limestone. As we advanced
towards Jacobs, the Land became more Ara-
-ble, I believe no place that I have rode
through since I left home, had so kindly
and good a limestone as for 10 or 15 miles back
Ten thousands of loads may be collected with-
-out Quarying, or being under the necessitity
[Page 170] of breaking the stones 34 miles
6th. Set Off for Kingwood, crossed the Pequest
within one mile of our Quarters, thenc[e]
rode several miles with it near on our right
having the Large allomoochy Mountain
close on our left, here we passed by what
is called the great Meadows, being seve-
-ral Thousand Acres, with very little timber
on it, and a large proportion without any,
it produces a valuable out let, and some
Coarse Hay. for want of more fall in the Pequest
it cannot be drained. In a few miles
we passed through Hacketstown a scatter-
-ing Village, thence 10 miles to James
Stouts on Muskenecunk where we fed, then
down sd. Creek 5 miles to Southhampton
a small Village, from thence to Henry
Cliftons of Kingwood 12 miles. perhaps Some 7 miles
back of some hights, there are two delight
-ful prospects over a large extent of an
improved Country, down the Waters
of the Rariton: several small branches
of said stream we having crossed on our way hither,
about one mile back we left Pitts Town,
a small Village, to our right. 34 miles
[Page 171]
7th. Set of early this Morning, in about
6 miles, off a bold commanding Eminance
we had an extensive and beautiful pros-
-pect, it was diversifyed by many im-
-proved Farms, over a great extent of Country.
from thence to Delaware 7 miles, the River
400 Yards Wide. Then to Josiah Adds’s, a
Public house through a well improved Coun-
-try 7 miles, having two miles back passed
by Buckingham Meeting house. Thence
10 miles to Jacob Perry’s a kind friend,
here we got our Dinners, and rested a
few hours. Thence to Ezra Comforts
near Plymoth Meeting house 12 miles were we
lodged, and were kindly entertained.
It is a beautifully Country from Bucking
-ham Meetinghouse here, the Land thick
settled; good Stone houses, and Barns;
Farms well improved. Many good fields
of Corn, and Oates, pretty good Rye, and
much of the ground under this Culture: but
little wheat sown, and that mostly very light.
People all busy a harvesting; Cradleing the
manner of cutting grain 42 miles
[Page 172]
8th Set of soon this Morning for Wil-
-listown Meeting. Shortly after we crossed Schuylkill we passed a small lot of spring barley perhaps the first we had seen went to my Brother in-
-law Amos Garretts, before Meeting 15m & where
we left our horses, where I heard from
my dear Wife and family, being the
first account I had from them since I
left home. and I left truly thankfull
I was so near my own habitation, and
among my near relations, and inti
-mate friends. We returned here from
Meeting and got our dinners, and
set of homewards, our roads parting
on the way, we took an affectionate fare-
-well of each other, having been out toga-
-ther ten Weeks wanting one day, and
travelled more than 1200 miles in near
unity, and Christian fellowship through
some proving dispensations. I got home
in the evening, and found my Dear
Wife and family all well, by whom
I was gladly recieved. and I felt thank
-full I was got once more amongst them
[Page 173]
11.
CHIEF OF THE SENECAS
CORNPLANTER. Kiontwogky or
Cornplanter. Superb Colored
Portrait, after the Painting by
C.B. King. (M’Kenney & Hall).
Large folio, 20 x 14½". Phila.
1836(1837). 20.00
He was one of the parties to
the Treaty of Fort Stanwix in 1784,
when a large cession of territory
was made by the Indians; at the
treaty of Fort Harmer, 5 years
afterwards, he took the lead in
conveying an immense tract of
country to the American govern-
ment, and became so unpopular
that his life was threatened by
his tribe.
[Page]
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Joshua Sharpless . Date: 2014